Isn’t It Beautiful? Why Visit Arizona’s Painted Desert

written by Penny Sadler

I left Holbrook, Arizona early in the morning, happy for the heavy clouds which provided relief from the summer heat. Bound for Dallas via Santa Fe, I had nothing else in mind except arriving as early as possible. I wanted to squeeze the most out of my two-day visit to America’s oldest capital city.

I wasn’t thrilled about driving across the desert alone. When I was growing up my family made many road trips between Los Angeles, California and Texas. These were not fun discovery trips — they were “let’s get there as fast as we can and only stop when necessary” trips. Consequently my teenage self found the desert incredibly boring. I was determined to rewrite the story of a desert road trip and turn those teenage memories upside down. Hence, stopping in Santa Fe on the way home was something fun to look forward to.

I was not far from Holbrook on I-40, when I saw a sign announcing the exit for the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert National Park. Since I had no one else to answer to I quickly veered off the highway for the park. It turned out to be one of the best travel decisions I’ve ever made.

Join me on my short journey through the Painted Desert.

The road through Arizona's Painted Desert on a rainy day with dramatic sky.

photo by Penny Sadler

Where is the Painted Desert?

Located in the northeastern part of Arizona, the Painted Desert is part of the Petrified Forest National Park and also extends to the Grand Canyon but is not part of the Grand Canyon. A large portion of the park is on land belonging to the Navajo Nation. Fun Fact: Route 66 used to cross through the park.

The Painted Desert is a living history book

Formed by layers of sediment, erosion, and mineral oxides such as iron and hematite millions of years ago, the colors, hues, and shades, paint a tapestry of time. It’s hard to imagine that this was once a tropical forest with dinosaurs roaming about.

For a more scientific description I’ve quoted Science Views.

An expanse of badland hills, flat-topped mesas, and buttes. It is an arid land, sparsely vegetated and heavily eroded. The name Painted Desert refers to the rainbow of colorful sedimentary layers exposed in the austere landscape. It is represented by outcroppings of the Late Triassic Period Chinle Formation.

How to explore the park

One of the nicest aspects of the Painted Desert is that it is easy to explore and enjoy. You can follow the park’s scenic road with specific lookout and information points at turnouts. There are walking trails, backcountry hiking, and camping. No matter whether you drive, walk, or hike, the Painted Desert is so beautiful that it’s easy to appreciate, even if you have limited time and are just driving through, stopping at lookout points, as I was.

1932 Studebaker marks the spot where Route 66 crossed the Painted Desert in Arizona.

Yes, that’s me trying to look as if …

My route through the Painted Desert

Since I entered by the north entrance I followed the road south, passing by the Painted Desert Inn. Built out of petrified wood and adobe by the army core of engineers, today it’s a museum and national landmark. Unfortunately, it closes when it rains so I wasn’t able to go inside. According to travel expert Rick Steves, the Inn served as a rest stop for travelers on Route 66 at one time.

My next stop was a viewing area where I read this Navajo quote about the painted desert, ” Doola do’ nizho’ni da?” Nizhoni means beautiful in Navajo. Translation, Isn’t it beautiful? I think we can all agree here.

I continued on, stopping for photos randomly on the road and at the viewing points. The park was not crowded that day and it was easy to pull over. I drove to Newspaper Rock, a petroglyph viewing area that has over 650 petroglyphs carved into it. Much like a newspaper, each tells a story. Some of the carvings are over 2000 years old.

Throughout the park there are thousands of sites like Newspaper Rock. No one knows for sure what the symbols mean but what is known is that this area was inhabited by humans for 13,000 years

Newspaper Rock, The Painted Desert, Arizona

Over 650 petroglyphs some over 2,000 years old have been found in the park.

I had to make the decision to turn back or continue on at Newspaper Rock, as it’s more or less the halfway point on the road through the park. Since the sky was so dramatic I opted to continue on to see the Tepees.

Don’t miss the tepees

Don’t miss the tepees, part of the badlands, these are cone shapes like hills layered in color. In such an otherwise barren landscape they really stand out. Plus the rain had made the colors of the rock all the more intense. I was beyond lucky to be in the park on a rainy day. Will I ever have that opportunity again?

Still, thanks to a last minute decision to veer off the highway and visit the park, I did in fact, turn my desert road trip into a memorable adventure. Isn’t it beautiful?

colorful layers of sedimentary rock form the Tepees in the Arizona Painted Desert.

Tepees in the Painted Desert

Need to know

If you’re driving east on I-40, exit 285 to US 180 east from Holbrook to the south entrance. I totally missed this and so did not get to see the Petrified Forest. Why? Because I drove past exit 285 and got off at exit 311, the north entrance. If I’d stayed on the park road until I reached the south entrance, I would have ended up back in Holbrook again (almost) and I didn’t have time for that.

Visitor’s center

I stopped at the Painted Desert visitor’s center on my way out since I went back the way I came. There’s a nice shop, restaurant, bathrooms, and a museum. It’s a good place to get oriented when you come in, or use the restroom on your way out, or both.

Painted Desert FAQ

Where are the entrances to the Painted Desert / Petrified Forest National Park?

There are two entrances, connected by a single 28-mile park road, so you can drive straight through from one to the other. If you’re heading east on I-40, the north entrance is at exit 311 (Painted Desert Visitor Center). The south entrance is off exit 285 to US-180 (Rainbow Forest Museum).

How much does it cost to enter the park?

As of 2026, the entrance fee is $25 per vehicle, valid for 7 days. The park is cashless, so bring a credit or debit card.

Do I need a reservation to visit?

No. Petrified Forest / Painted Desert National Park does not require a timed-entry reservation. You can just show up and pay the entrance fee at the gate.

How long is the scenic drive through the park?

The road through the park is about 28 miles long, with a visitor’s center at each entrance and plenty of scenic pullouts along the way — including the Tepees and Newspaper Rock.

When is the best time to visit the Painted Desert?

The best time to visit, in my opinion, is when it rains. But since you can’t always time that, I’d aim for spring (March–May) or fall (September–November), when daytime temperatures are milder and the light is soft for photos. Summers get brutally hot though afternoon monsoon storms do roll through then too, so if you’re visiting in summer, an afternoon shower might just work in your favor.

Can you see the Grand Canyon from the Painted Desert?

Not from this section. The Painted Desert as a geologic feature does extend north toward the Grand Canyon, but the badlands you drive through in Petrified Forest National Park, along I-40, are a separate stretch — you won’t see the Grand Canyon itself from the park road. It’s a distinct destination and a longer drive north from here.