It was a chilly fall morning in Italy’s Langhe wine region, where we met Fabrizio Francone. Wearing several layers of plaid, he greeted us with an abundance of energy and enthusiasm outside his family’s cantina in Neive. Fabrizio has an ease about him that makes him a natural ambassador for the wine regions of Piedmont, Italy.
We had so much fun with Fabrizio, I’m not sure if I should begin this story at the beginning with the wine tasting and tour at Francone Winery , or with the visit to the Gallina vineyards where we drank Francone’s award-winning Barbaresco, the Alps visible in the distance. I think I shall start at the beginning because it set the tone for the rest of the day.
Fabrizio at the entrance to the cantina and Francone wine cellars in Neive.
The Francone Family In Neive
The Francone family began producing wine in Piedmont in the late 1800s. Originally production was for personal use however, they later promoted their wines in the nearby city of Turin. In 1964, the Francone family built the cantina as a wine tasting room to cater to tourists discovering the area.
Today the vineyards and the village of Neive are part of a newly designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, bringing ever more tourism to the area. Neive is also one of the Borghi piu belli d’Italia, meaning one of the most beautiful small villages in Italy.
Barrels in the cellars at Cantina Francone.
A visit to the fifty-plus-year-old cantina is like walking through the Francone family history. The cantina is filled with the relics and tools of viticulture, art, and information about the terroir. It is a museum that tells the story of five generations of winemaking.
Though steeped in history, Francone is a forward-thinking company; sustainable methods and techniques are implemented throughout the winemaking process. For example, stainless steel fermentation tanks are cooled by recycled and reclaimed water.
Wine Tasting
In these water-cooled tanks, the fermentation of the Dolcetto and Arneis was already underway. Fabrizio gave us a taste of each straight from the tank. But the wine Francone is primarily known for is their Barbaresco, made from the Nebbiolo grape– the most important red wine varietal grown in the Langhe. I was looking forward to sampling the Barbaresco Riserva when we sat down for a proper tasting.
Gangs all here in the tasting room at Francone. “Drink more, talk less,” was Fabrizio’s advice.
I’ve included some tasting notes for three wines: the Arneis, because we also had a taste of this wine still in the fermentation stage; the Barbaresco Riserva, as noted earlier, Barbaresco is the most important wine Francone produces; and the Valsellera, because I like sparkling wine.
Arneis is a popular wine produced in the area. It is usually crisp with citrus notes and white flowers. Very easy to drink.
Tasting notes
The Arneis DOCG had lovely citrus and floral notes both on the nose and palate, typical of this grape variety. Francone ages their Arneis on the lees for two months which helps give it a very creamy mouthfeel. Or as Fabrizio says, “With every drop, you feel a little better.”
The Valsellera is a sparkling rose made in the metodo classico and aged on the lees about twenty-four months. It’s unique because it is made from Nebbiolo grapes, the same grapes used to make the Barbaresco. But used in the rosé, the fruitiness of the Nebbiolo can be coaxed from the grapes, making this a delightful and refreshing wine that pairs well with appetizers. It is simply a great wine for drinking any time.
The Barbaresco Riserva 2010 DOCG the grapes come from the oldest vines beautifully expressing the characteristics of the terroir. Barbaresco has softer tannins than Barolo, which is also made from Nebbiolo grapes, and can be drunk within five years of bottling. The Riserva must be aged a minimum of two year. Ripe fruit, leather, spice, and jam are some of the tasting notes on the palate. I’d like to drink this wine with lamb chops.
Pro wine tasting tip:
At a tasting it is customary to spit each taste into a bucket. Spitting out wine may sound like blasphemy, but when you have a full day of winery visits ahead of you, it is all about survival. However, our tasting was accompanied by breadsticks and some local salumi and cheeses which meant a little less spitting.
Visit Nebbiolo vineyards
A highlight of the day was a visit to the historic Gallina vineyards (some of the most famous vineyards in the Langhe) Just a short distance from Barbaresco the Gallina vineyards produce wines of distinction and great character.
The steep slopes and south facing direction are perfect for the vines.
In these vineyards, Francone grows Nebbiolo for their delicious and award-winning Barbaresco wine, as well as Dolcetto, Moscato, and Chardonnay grapes. All of the wine produced from these vineyards is either DOC or DOCG (denominazione origine controllata or denominazione origine controllata garantita), the highest designation in Italy. The wines from the Gallina vineyards are recognizable by the label designation, Antichi Poderi dei Gallina.
I really did pick grapes.
More About The Gallina Vineyards
In 1990, the Francone family decided that these vineyards merited a label of their own and created Antichi Poderi dei Gallina: complex, stylish wines with excellent aging potential, made unique by the terroir, Gallina in Neive. The grape varieties cultivated on these hills are: Nebbiolo (Barbaresco ‘l Ciaciaret), Dolcetto ( Menturin), Moscato (Poderi Gallina), Chardonnay ( Le Rose), and soon, two new vineyards will be born here, with Pinot Nero and Nascetta.
Description is from the Francone website.
Yes, those are the alps in the background.
Harvest In The Vineyards
The day we visited the vineyards workers were busy with the harvest. The steepness of the slopes requires hand harvesting. Fabrizio showed us how to cut the grape clusters from the vines and add them to the bins without damaging them.
To reward our labor in the vineyards, Fabrizio surprised us with a bottle of the Antichi Poderi Gallina Barbaresco DOCG. As we toasted the beautiful day, the harvest, and of course Francone, I imagined what it might be like to own a vineyard in Italy’s famous Langhe area. It was easy to see why Fabrizio is such a happy guy, surrounded by one of the most stunning landscapes in Italy, every single day.
What’s not to be happy about here? cin cin!
Barbaresco DOCG Gallina vineyards
“The Barbaresco DOCG Gallina is crafted from the grapes of L’Ciaciaret vineyard in the Gallina cru, the most valuable cru of the Neive area, which is on Renato Ratti’s Map of Historic Barbaresco cru-vineyards. It was one of the first cru-mentions to feature in the local wine labels. Thanks to a south/south-west facing exposure of the slope, the vineyard produces nebbiolo grapes which can give intensive and extremely fine wines.”
To visit Cantina Francone in Neive, check the website for hours.
Cantina Francone
Via Tanaro, 45 – 12052 Neive
You can also follow Francone Winery on Facebook.
Where To Stay In Neive
Depending on whether you prefer a countryside experience or a small village, I recommend staying in the charming village of Neive, one of Italy’s most beautiful small towns. Aside from being extremely picturesque, Neive has several excellent restaurants. You can check hotel options on Booking.com and VRBO
Francone Winery also offers accommodations in the Gallina vineyards. The apartments are not far from Neive and Barbaresco. I think sleeping surrounded by these ancient vineyards would be a really cool experience.
All content is copyright Penny Sadler. Please message me if you would like to use a photo.
18 comments
Now that I’ve given birth and am no longer pregnant, fabulous wine tasting regions like this one are back on the list! This place looks great!
Congrats on the babies! Now lets drink a toast!
The vineyard, wines and surrounds sound delicious and extremely inviting. But a 10 a.m. wine tasting? That’s dedication.
You gotta do what you gotta do.
What a beautiful winery. Now that’s my kind of travel experience. Are their wines only available in Piemonte? Good reason to schedule a visit if so!
No I’m sure you can buy them in the USA. If you go to the Francone website the info for purchasing is there. Or shoot them an email. Thanks for your comment.
I would love to replicate this trip – amazing that the vineyards and the village of Neive are part of a newly designated UNESCO World Heritage Site; we’ve started making it our mission to tick off UNESCO sites as we travel, so that’s even more of an incentive to go!
Yes, me too. UNESCO sites always are fascinating.
Place looks stunning, and I can tell this family is serious and passionate about what they do! Makes loads of difference.
thank you!
Penny, did you crush those grapes you picked in your suitcase on the way home, and maybe squeeze out a glass from one of your sweaters later? Lots of good info and great shots in the article—looked like a rollicking good trip. (I’m jealous.)
ha!now that’s an idea. I think it would be harder to get those grapes home than a bottle of wine for sure. farm product from another country you know. It was really a nice tour. If you can meet up with Fabrizio you are sure to have a good time.
Love the pics of you!!!!
Thanks D!
Nice photos. I hadn’t seen those cooled fermentation tanks either. Interesting.
Thanks Jennifer. It is interesting. I find it fascinating how wine making is the same but different at each place.
Sounds fabulous. I just got back from skiing in Utah, and you can not by wine in a market, the only place to buy anything stronger than beer is the State Liquor store. It resembles BevMo. Even a glass of wine poured in restaurants is measured out according to state regulations.
Sounds like you need a visit to wine country! 🙂