Italy’s Scenic Amalfi Coast

 

Italy’s Amalfi Coast is a stunning stretch along the coast of southern Italy from Sorrento to Salerno. It’s considered one of the most scenic coastlines in Italy and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

My first visit to Italy was inspired by photographs of the Amalfi Coast.  Images of whitewashed villages tumbling down mountainsides to the sea. Fragrant lemon trees shimmering in the sunshine beckoned from afar. I imagined staying in my very own Italian hillside villa with an endless view of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Since 2020, the Amalfi Coast has become even more popular, and therefore,  more crowded. Make your plans in advance. The best time to travel is off-season. 

 

Let’s explore the main Amalfi coast towns.

The Amalfi Coast is studded with small towns. Some are more accessible than others, something to consider when planning your time there. Here’s a list of the well-known main towns. However, there are many other charming towns on the Amalfi coast.

Sorrento

Sorrento is on the Bay of Naples, not exactly on the Amalfi Coast but near enough. I think Sorrento is the best place for first-time visitors to the Amalfi Coast. The convenience of staying in Sorrento is considerable…you can take the train to Pompeii, or the bus to Positano, and there are ferry services to the Island of Capri and other coastal towns.

Piazzo Tasso is the main square and Sorrento’s historic old town is pretty.  The old town or Centro Storico, has many small trattorias and shops selling ceramics…and then there’s limoncello. The delicious and sweet liqueur made from the fragrant lemons grown in the area is a must. Just be careful, it’s usually around 30% ABV! There are tours to learn how to make limoncello but I recommend ordering it with a nice meal. It’s easy to make on your own.

Wondering if Sorrento has beaches? It sure doesn’t look like there are any accessible beaches when you view photos of the town perched above vertical cliffs. However, lifelong resident Giuseppe Morvillo has written a guide for Sorrento beaches and beach clubs. It’s filled with great information. 

Note that Sorrento is about an hour away from the Amalfi Coast.  It’s less expensive and this is another reason people chose to stay here instead of the more high-end town of Positano or the Island of Capri.

Sorrento can be very crowded in high season, May – October, but so is the entire Amalfi Coast area. Yes, it is touristy but worth it if you’ve never been.  A less expensive option is Salerno which also has good access by ferry to the town of Amalfi and by bus to Sorrento.  

I stayed in two different hotels in Sorrento. One was on the coast with great views of Mt. Vesuvius. The other was a small bed and breakfast property on Piazza Tasso which I do not recommend. The piazza is busy all of the time and at all hours. I didn’t sleep a wink. 

 

Positano

American author John Steinbeck said this of Positano, “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you’re there, and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”

Positano is everything you imagine and more, with panoramic views, and luxurious, expensive hotels…it’s the essence of la dolce vita.   However, if you are traveling in peak season your vision of la dolce vita should include crowds. Positano will be more crowded than any other place on the Amalfi Coast, except perhaps Capri.

The drive to  Positano from Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast road is dramatic cliffs and steep drop-offs on the coastal side. If you have any phobias, do not sit on the coastal side. This road is always crowded as well. Hiring a local guide is the best way to experience this drive.

Positano is a great place to spend a day on the beach, shopping, eating, or simply wandering. If you’ve been to the Amalfi Coast before but haven’t stayed on the Amalfi Coast, Positano is a good choice. Be aware that it is all about walking, and it’s steep. It’s not an accessible location. 

If you’re planning to stay in Positano for the duration of your Amalfi Coast visit, consider hiring a private driver to take you there. 

Ravello

Ravello is considered one of the most romantic towns In southern Italy and Villa Rufolo is one of two villas which the town is famous for.  The Villa, built in the 14th century, frequently hosted kings and popes. Today it is an extremely popular destination for weddings. 

Villa Cimbrone is the other famous villa, now a luxury hotel. Built in the 12th century the history of this unique property is a bit muddled.  Go to see the gorgeous English gardens installed by former owner Ernest Wilhelm Becket. Villa Cimbrone is considered one of the most scenic locations in Italy and a fifteen-minute drive from Amalfi.

Amalfi

The town of Amalfi is the largest in the area and often one of the most congested. Still, it’s worth at least a day trip for its Romanesque Duomo and Cloister of Paradise. The oldest paper mill in Europe is in Amalfi, and a small paper museum.

Amalfi is well connected by bus and ferry. If you’re staying in Amalfi you’ll be well situated to make day trips to Positano, Pompeii, and Capri. A fun thing to do is to arrive in Amalfi by ferry or a boat tour for the stunning views of the Italian coast from the water. 

Capri

A good reason to visit the Amalfi Coast is the Island of Capri. Luxury yachts anchored off the coast are a given. Capri is expensive. But, you can take the ferry over and then the funicular up to the town of Capri for about 40 euros. Or take a private boat tour. This may be the way to go if you have a few people in your group to share the cost. I always think approaching any place from the water lends a different and beautiful perspective. 

We spent about a half day in the town of Capri, walking and window shopping. An Italian guy who loved hiking convinced me to walk the Via del Pizzolungo to the Grotto del Matermania. That was a lovely hike but that trail can be quite hard so I only recommend it if you’re fit. 

One of the best things about Capri is the views. I also had a very eventful ferry ride back to Sorrento. Send me a DM if you want to hear that story. 

The archaeological site of Pompeii

A visit to the Amalfi Coast must include Pompeii!  Pompeii was the number one reason I went to southern Italy.  I had dreamed of seeing Pompeii since grade school, which proves that some dreams do come true.

We spent about a half day at Pompeii though you could spend less time. There’s a lot to see and since I had waited for 40 years to go, I was in no hurry to leave! The National Archaeological Museum in Naples has a huge collection of ancient Roman artifacts from the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum, another site covered by Mt. Vesuvius. 

In case you don’t know anything about Pompeii: On August 24, A.D. 79, Mt. Vesuvius erupted, raining dust, stone, and molten lava. Two hours later, the entire city of Pompeii and most of its residents were buried by the lava flow. To read more about Pompeii, check out the excellent BBC site Pompeii: Portents of Disaster.

Mount Vesuvius is still an active volcano and part of a national park. You can visit the mouth of the crater during specific hours. The park closes if the volcano is especially active or there is bad weather.  I think the perfect place to view Mt. Vesuvius from afar. 

If you’d like to explore another beautiful Italian destination consider Lake Orta, the most beautiful place in the world. 

If You Go

Resident Giuseppe Morvillo is a native of Sorrento and of course, recommends his hometown. I asked him for one other place he’d recommend to stay and he suggested the beautiful town of Praiano. I’ve never been there so I’m taking his word for it. I also read that it’s close enough to walk the Path of the Gods from Praiano.  A recent show featuring this area has brought a lot of tourism so let me know if you go.

Stay

Check rates for hotels on Expedia here and Check out these dreamy places to stay on Trip Advisor 

This section contains affiliate links but don’t worry, if you want to book a hotel through one of these links it won’t cost you anything and it helps me pay for the maintenance of the site. Much appreciated!

The best way to arrive at the Amalfi Coast is by train from Naples or Salerno. You can also fly into any major airport in Italy and take the train to Naples and then connect via the Circumvesuviana train to the small towns between Naples and Sorrento. Public transportation in the area is good and I never needed a car. Or you can arrive by boat or ferry. For more details read the National Geographic article Road Trip: Amalfi Coast

Have you been to the Amalfi Coast yet? You might like my friend Margie Miklas’ book, My Amalfi Love Affair. I’m not an Amazon affiliate, just a friend and fan of Margie!