First Time Visitors Guide To San Antonio, Texas: History, Culture & Best Of The City

One of Texas’ oldest and most culturally rich cities, San Antonio is often pigeonholed as Alamo City. While it’s true that the Alamo is one of the world’s most famous monuments, there are plenty of other attractions to enjoy in San Antonio.

San Antonio is in the midst of major revitalization,  and is one of the fastest-growing cities in the nation. Scaffolding and cranes dominate facades and the skyline. Even with all the renovation happening, the real heart and history of San Antonio remains in the old churches, town squares, and markets.

These are the sites and monuments that I believe are essential to discovering and exploring San Antonio, especially if you are visiting for the first time. 

Missions National Park UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Texas, like California, and most of the American West, was once a Spanish colony. During the 1700s, the Spanish established missions throughout Texas—there are five in San Antonio alone.  In 2015, all five missions in San Antonio were given UNESCO’s World Heritage status, meaning they are of extreme cultural and historical importance and are protected by international treaties.

Mission San Jose

Mission San Jose is one of the five missions that make up the San Antonio Missions National Park.  All of the missions were built by the Spanish to spread Christianity among the people who were native to the area. The missions also served to protect the locals from raids by Apache Indians. Many Native Americans saw the missions as their only solution to survival.

Mission San Jose is considered the prettiest of the four missions. Due to its size it is referred to as The Queen of the Missions. The remains of a convent can be seen adjacent to the chapel, as well as a museum with many relics that illustrate cooking, farming, and life in the wilds of Texas in the 1700s—not an easy life, to be sure.

Don’t miss the Rose Window, a key architectural feature of the church, it has a bit of a mysterious and romantic story attached to it.

It is uncertain who carved the window and the story claims that it is named after a woman who died at sea on the voyage from Spain. It is said to be one of the finest examples of baroque architecture in the United States

The Missions National Park can be accessed by foot or bicycle via the trail along the river. If you are driving, don’t worry—parking is plentiful and handicap accessible. If you need a wheelchair, there is a loaner available at the mission.

Insider tip: Entrance to the mission is free and guided tours are available. San Jose is the largest of the missions so plan to spend about two hour there, though you could spend longer.Part of enjoying the visit is spending time admiring the architecture from the outside. Bring a water bottle and if you’re planning to stay a while you could bring a snack. 

The Alamo

The story of the Alamo is big—a lot bigger than the actual place is today, which often leads to disappointed visitors.

The issue is that the Alamo’s image is larger than life, especially in  Hollywood movies. Thanks to technology the website for the Alamo offers a chance to see what the Alamo originally looked like. It will put things into perspective for you.  For now, know this: the Alamo was originally a mission, and the original complex was approximately three acres.

Remember the Alamo

Even though Texans lost the  battle at the Alamo and few people survived, Texans were inspired tocontinue to fight for what they believed was their right to freedom from rule by Mexico. Hence, “Remember The Alamo,” became the battle cry for the Battle of San Jacinto, which is where Texans finally won their independence.

The city of San Antonio is building a 100 million-dollar museum to create an Alamo experience that will better honor the history of this Texas National Historic site. Scheduled to open in 2027, the multi-million dollar updates will include a 160,000 square foot visitor center and museum with eight galleries, a 4D theater, rooftop restaurant, and event spaces.  

 Most of the artifacts for the new museum have been donated by Phil Collins! That’s right, the musician Phil Collins. He’s now an honorary Texan—and rightfully so! Phil’s fascination with the history of Texas and the American West since he was a wee lad watching the Disney series Davy Crockett. Phil felt it was time to donate his collection back to its home. The Phil Collins collection can be viewed at the Ralston Family Collections Center. 

Fun fact: Taylor Sheridan of Yellowstone fame has been tapped to direct a film for the museum’s new theater. 

Many people go to the Alamo and only go inside the chapel, but there are also beautiful shady gardens. Take some time to stroll around the gardens, and read about the monuments donated by people from all over the world who remember the Alamo.

San Antonio River Walk: what to know before you go

Most visitors to San Antonio head straight for the River Walk.  The San Antonio  River Walk started as a park. Over time, has developed into the tourist attraction it is today. Originally only three and a half miles long, today it is thirteen miles in length and has been extended both to the north and south.

Lined with restaurants, shops, hotels, bars, and even theaters where you can see live performances, the River Walk attracts over 11 million visitors per year. For this reason many visitors avoid it. However, it is possible to walk along the river and find quiet places, especially with the new extensions. 

Or  you can take a riverboat taxi that operates on what is called the downtown reach of the river. There are also tours that last about 30 minutes and travel 1.5 miles of the Riverwalk where you’ll learn about the history of the River Walk  and top spots to visit.

Insider tip: You could walk to all four missions via the Mission Reach extension of the River Walk which totals about eight miles. Note that the Alamo is part of the UNESCO designation but it is not on the river. 

San Fernando Cathedral

San Fernando Cathedral is the oldest operating colonial church in the United States, the oldest church in the Lone Star State, and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

It is also the geographic heart of the city, located on land given to the locals by the reigning Spanish king in 1730.

Just inside the entrance of the cathedral is a tomb said to contain the remains of some of the heroes of the Alamo, including Davy Crockett, Colonel James Bowie, and Colonel William B. Travis. However, it is uncertain if their remains are really in the sarcophagus.

After the Battle of the Alamo all bodies were burned in large piles. Years later, the ashes were scooped up and put into this sarcophagus and taken to the cathedral. So, maybe their bones are there,  maybe they are not. Nevertheless, the Cathedral is a place where those who wish to can pay homage to these men who fought for Texas independence in a battle that they knew would not end well. The Cathedral is located in the Main Plaza Main  also known as Plaza de las Islas.

Don’t miss the retablo

Be sure to step inside the cathedral to see the elaborate retablo crafted in the Spanish colonial style by artists from Mexico City.  A retablo is a large wooden altar, usually quite detailed,  common in Spanish Colonial churches. The church spent fifteen million dollars on the renovation of the church, and the retablo is regarded as one of the most important pieces of religious art in the United States.

This is an active church, so please be respectful. If there are services, do not take photos, and turn your phone off.

The Saga at San Fernando Cathedral

San Antonio The Saga is one of the best art installations I’ve seen anywhere. The Saga tells the history of San Antonio in light and sound. This brilliant light show is cast onto the facade of the San Fernando Cathedral as if it were a canvas for this colorful, emotional, and educational experience. I’ve included a link to the video which was shared by the artist. However, I promise nothing compares to standing in the square and watching it in real life.

It would be a good idea to brush up on your US history as it will enhance your experience of the Saga. There were a few moments in the story when I wasn’t sure exactly what or who was being referenced. Still, I enjoyed the show and can see why the SAGA is a top tourist attraction, a must for anyone who wants to explore San Antonio.

The creator of The Saga, Xavier de Richemont, has installations all over the world. This was his first in the US. 

Be sure to check for viewing times which change depending on the season. The Saga experience is free to the public.

Explore El Mercado

You may hear Market Square referred to as El Mercado. El Mercado is Spanish and translates to the market, and refers to one of the original buildings on the north side of the square.

The largest Mexican market in the country and the home of the famous La Margarita restaurant, ((they invented the fajita). This is another iconic destination for those seeking to explore San Antonio. The best times to visit and avoid the crowds are weekdays and early morning on weekends. However, it’s also the perfect place to enjoy a Mexican style happy hour. 

Colorful and lively, El Mercado  is a fun place to listen to music, shop for Mexican imports, and enjoy cultural events.  Locals say Market Square is like a trip across the border.

 

O’Henry House

A small, unassuming limestone house on a corner about two blocks from Market Square, the writer known by his pen name, O’Henry, occupied the house from 1895 to 1896. During this period he published The Rolling Stone, a weekly newspaper.

Known for his short stories and ability to define the essence of a place, O’Henry loved San Antonio, and his descriptions of life in the markets and saloons of San Antonio are some of his best work. The house is not open to the public, but you can arrange to have a docent meet you there if you wish to see inside. The number to call is located on the door of the house.

Location: 601 Dolorosa St. Corner of Dolorosa and S. Laredo

Schilo’s

Schilo’s is the perfect escape on a warm day in San Antonio (or any day). Opening in 1917, Schilo’s is the oldest operating restaurant in San Antonio. On a hot day head there for a spicy-sweet root beer.

Honestly, you shouldn’t skip going to Schilo’s if you love root beer because it’s not sold any place else in the world. While you’re there, take a break from Mexican food and chow down on some hearty German classics. You can also chow down on some classics. Favorites include split pea soup, Reuben sandwiches, and schnitzel. 

Best hotels in San Antonio for first time visitors

Drury Plaza Hotel

Drury Plaza Hotel is an ideal location for anyone wanting to explore San Antonio on foot. It’s located across from the San Fernando Cathedral, right on the River Walk. In minutes you can be at Market Square, the Majestic Theater, and you’re only four blocks from the Alamo.

Housed in the former Alamo National Bank building, the hotel is an architectural treasure. Notice the stained glass window in the lobby depicting the Alamo, and on either side of the stained glass, the art deco sculptures commemorating FDR’s Works Project Administration.

Hotel perks include a rooftop swimming pool with excellent views of the city and fantastic sunsets. There’s also complimentary breakfast and happy hour. Take a room on the west side for the views of the San Fernando Cathedral and sunsets.

The Drury Plaza invested in the Riverwalk extension, making it possible to access the River Walk from the lower level of the hotel. Walk outside, cross the river, and just on the other side is a peaceful water garden with shady oak trees. Walk up the steps and you’re in Main Plaza, the oldest part of the city. 

Rates start at $189 per night. Check the hotel website here. Compare rates on Hotels.com where you may find it slightly better. 

Hotel Emma

For a luxurious stay at one of the most interesting hotels in San Antonio, the Hotel Emma is a must. One of only three hotels in Texas awarded two Michelin keys, Hotel Emma is the jewel of the 22-acre Pearl District. Built in 1883 as a brewery,  architectural firm Roman and Williams transformed the historic Pearl brewery into a 146-room elegant boutique hotel.  

All of the interesting architectural elements of the brewery from the original construction have been preserved while adding character and texture to the new design. Lush materials and grand spaces feel inviting and exclusive all at once. Exposed pipes become art, and brew tanks are a place to cozy up for cocktails.

Acccording to hotel staff, guests fly from all over the world to stay at the Hotel Emma. Business moguls visit the Emma to study the revitalized Pearl District, owned not  by a corporation, but by one man with a lot of vision.

Sternewirth at the Hotel Emma

 Hotel Emma is the latest place to see and be seen in San Antonio. Locals, too, are finding their way to the Emma to enjoy a cocktail and a bite at the Sternewirth Tavern and Clubroom.

Sternewirth is located in what was the taproom of the original Pearl brewery,  where workers could enjoy a free pint. Today the room beckons with twenty-five-foot high ceilings, cozy leather seating arrangements and private corners.

If you plan to go (and you should) book a table in one of the old brew tanks. It’s hard to explain, but the seating is semi-private, cozy, and has a Morocco meets elegant vibe: low round table, semi-circular seating built-in, and lots of pillows. 

When is the best time to visit San Antonio?

Any time of year is nice in San Antonio. Since a lot of  the things you’ll want to do will be outside try to avoid summer. Summer in Texas is hot and San Antonio is humid. But, with a bit of planning the heat won’t be an issue. Plan visits to the Alamo and the mission for early in the day, preferably before noon. The Riverwalk provides the perfect escape from the heat with multiple places to stop for a refreshing drink under an umbrella while a fan blows cool mist over you. Or, step into Schilo’s. 

While you’re in San Antonio, it would be great to take a day trip to the beautiful Texas Hill Country, it will be a little cooler, too. 

Be sure to bring sunscreen, stay hydrated, and dress for the weather. Wear a hat if you’re walking in the sun and dress in breathable cool clothes. You’ll love San Antonio.