How To Make The Most Of Two Days In Provence

If you’re looking for a vacation destination that has it all, and I don’t say that lightly, consider Provence. 300 days per year of sunshine, coastal cities, and  hilltop villages make Provence one of the world’s desirable locations. A large region located in southeastern France, Marseille is the capital of Provence.  

Provence was the first place I visited outside of Italy that has a huge number of Roman ruins.  In the 1st century AD, even Pliny the Elder wrote that it looked more like Italy than a province.  I could see his point.  Provence is lovely and the incredible number of ancient Roman monuments just adds to its appeal.

When I travel, I generally like to leave room for a bit of serendipity, an element of surprise.  I don’t plan every minute however I do make an exception when I only have one or two days. Lack of time demands planning. Therefore I hired a private guide to drive me to the hilltop villages and wineries I’d read so much about in books like A Year In Provence. 

Since I was embarking on a Viking river cruise in Avignon, I arrived two days early to allow time to explore on my own, and a day to spend with a guide.  It was mid-September and I was quite lucky to find local guide Emily Durand, owner and founder of Your Private Provence, a boutique tour company. Emily was recommend by Carolyn, publisher at Perfectly Provence. After the first email exchange with Emily I knew I we’d get on fabulously. Plus she agreed to pick me up early enough to get to Roussillon before sunrise. That’s the kind of guide I wanted! We had a full and perfect day exploring the Luberon.

Emily has been sharing her private Provence with tourists since 2013. She was easy to speak with and had many good stories to share. An American from Oregon, she married a Frenchman over 20 years ago and has been living in Provence ever since. Be sure to ask her the details of how she met and married this man in the ancient times before cell phones and internet!. 

Pro tip: Avignon is ideally located for exploring the countryside.

What is the Luberon? It’s simply breathtaking landscapes, delicious food and wine, and picturesque villages, which is pretty much what everyone thinks of when they think  of Provence.

Here’s everything I did, both on my own and with Emily, during my two days based in Avignon, France.

Avignon

 The Palace of the Popes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is the number one tourist attraction in Avignon and the sixth most visited monument in France. It is huge, at 15,000 sq.meters or 161,000 sq. ft. more or less, making it the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Built in the 14th century it houses seven popes over 100 years. In French it is  the Palais du Papes. 

Located on the Rhône River, Avignon was settled first by the Gauls, then the Romans. The city was surrounded by three miles of defensive walls that at one time had thirty-nine towers. There is a fee to tour the palace and there’s not a lot to see inside but it’s worth it to climb one of the towers for a fantastic view over Avignon. 

Another iconic site in Avignon is the Pont Saint Bénézet. It was one of only three bridges in the Middle Ages therefore it was extremely important for transporting goods, pilgrims, and armies. The bridge was rebuilt multiple times after flood damage but after the last flood in1668, the townspeople chose not to restore it. It’s a great vantage point for taking photos or just a new perspective. 

The historic center of Avignon is not too big–I saw a lot in about 48 hours.  Be sure to visit Les Halles, a food market where you can buy everything from fresh baguette to olives, veggies, cheese, meats, etc. I went and had a coffee since I wasn’t going to stay in Avignon long enough to go grocery shopping but it’s fun to observe life at these local markets. 

I found Avignon the perfect place for wandering–very safe, and friendly with many pretty cafes and squares to sit and have a coffee or a glass of wine. Most of the hospitality people speak English which is helpful though not really necessary.

One of my favorite travel memories is of walking around taking photos of a window box filled with flowers. As it turned out,  it was a private residence.  The owner invited me inside for tea. When people say the French are not friendly I think they must mean Parisians. 

This part of France is known for the wines of Chateauneuf du Pape, the wines of the Popes. Remember, the seat of the Catholic church was relocated to Avignon for about 100 years. The popes wanted good wine to drink so they invested in the local vineyards. I spent about a half day visiting Chateauneuf which you can read about in my article The Legacy of The Popes, Chateauneuf du Pape. If you’re a wine lover this is a must.

Roussillon

Seeing Roussillon for the first time was as enchanting as I had imagined it would be.  It was the one place I knew I would regret if I didn’t make the effort to get there.

Known as the ochre village because it is situated on top of the world’s largest ochre mine, the colors or Roussillon, from mustard yellow to deep terra cotta and every shade in between have inspired artists for centuries.  

It was easy to see why it is considered one of the prettiest villages in France. The colors are as stunning in real life as they are in photographs. 

Roussillon is a very small village which you can see in a couple of hours including a stop for coffee or lunch. We arrived very early because I had only one day to visit hilltop villages and allow for some surprises along the way.  I spent my time taking photos and walking the narrow streets. There were so many great photo ops there it was  great to have Emily around to take a few photos of me in this magical place. I’m usually alone, so it’s rare I get a good photograph of myself. 

 Since we had arrived so early we had to linger long enough for the shops to open and to get a coffee and a pastry.

If you have time, explore the walking trail that overlooks the ochre valley.

Pro tip: There are many parking lots but if you arrive early enough you’ll probably be able to park on the street.  

Pont Julien

Between Roussillon and Bonnieux we passed the Pont Julien, a 2000 year old Roman bridge. The bridge is in remarkable condition, so much so that until 2005 cars were still driving over the bridge! Today it is open for hikers, walkers, and cyclists only. 

Lacoste

Lacoste is a tiny medieval village near Bonnieux.  The architecture, cobbled streets and views are the main attractions in Lacoste.  The village has had a long and rather strange history. In the Middle Ages the entire town was massacred.  In the 17th century, the Marquis de Sade owned a chateau on the hillside with magnificent views overlooking the valley. Yes, the Marquis de Sade lived in Lacoste. Most recently the fashion designer Pierre Cardin purchased and restored many buildings in the town including the remains of the Marquis’ chateau.  Cardin has also established an art trail throughout the town. 

Emily asked me if I was up for the steep walk to the top, emphasizing that the views were worth it. I was up for the challenge even though I spent the walk pulling my socks up. Along the way I noticed many charming details such as homes with outside lamps in the shape of windmills and buildings with ghost signs.  Afterwards we ate at a restaurant with an outside terrace enjoying the perfect weather and a classic Nicoise salad.

Chateau la Canorgue

 An easy detour is a lovely winery in the area,  Chateau La Canorgue. I was interested in visiting because I’d read that the wines are 100% biodynamic and have been so for over 100 years.  Currently the fifth generation is running the winery, which is over two hundred years old. The wines are so good that they sell out (mainly to locals), long before the season is over, and win many awards.

Chateau La Canorgue became famous in the United States after the film  A Very Good Year with Russell Crow and Marion Cotillard was released.  Go for the wines and say you visited the winery from the film. But do not try to visit the house or film location. You will walk by the estate on your way to the tasting room, but there is a strict no photographs rule enforced. Respect the privacy of the owners.

Pro tip: September is usually harvest season and getting an appointment for a tasting a small, family-owned winery is usually impossible. Having a guide who is local and speaks the language, well, that was a huge bonus. Emily made the appointment and we had a lovely tasting.

Abbey of Notre Dame de Senanque 

This was the last place we visited, perfect for winding down after a busy day driving around the countryside, though I only had to ride. The abbey is in the middle of a beautiful fields, surrounded by the trees, and gardens, perfectly emblematic of the Luberon. I love visiting abbeys for the lovely architecture and the peaceful atmosphere. 

Founded in 1149, the abbey is one of the oldest Cistercian in Provence. During its so called Golden Age, it was quite wealthy and owned many properties and even a hospital in Arles. 

Today the monks at the abbey produce lavender products, olive oil, and honey. It is a place of monastic life and therefore be sure to check the schedule before you visit. You can take a guided tour as well but be sure to schedule it in advance. 

Online reservations are recommended. 

As you can see, you can pack a lot into only two days in Provence, provided you plan well. Staying in a city like Avignon, in the heart of the area is important too… why waste time commuting. And, the ability to roam the cobbled streets of Avignon, to walk to cafes and shops was a real plus. 

I find touring with a guide the most enjoyable way to learn enough about an area and the culture, that I feel maybe I understand it a little bit. I would not hesitate to recommend Your Private Provence. 

How To Get To Provence

If you’re flying to France and your destination is Provence, the closest airport is Marseille.  Marseille is well connected to the rest of the country via train. In one hour you can be in Avignon. Other popular destinations in Provence,  Paris or elsewhere in France,  are just a train ride away.