Why I Fell In Love With Trastevere

Updated September 2022

I first discovered Trastevere in 2009. Though it was only May it was unseasonably hot and I had rented a room in an old apartment building without air conditioning.  The only way to cope with that was to do as the Romans do: luxuriate in long lunches, take a nap in the heat of the day, and generally enjoy life more. Trastevere was the perfect place to learn about “la dolce far niente,” the sweetness of doing nothing.

 

I’ve returned to Trastevere many times since that first stay. I fell in love with Trastevere’s narrow medieval streets, the warm terra cotta colors of the buildings, the friendly people, and the fact that it’s a real neighborhood where I can find everything I need within a few blocks. Bonus, it is also easily accessible via public transportation.

 

How Trastevere Became My Neighborhood

As much as I love travel and the thrill of discovering new cultures and meeting new people, I also enjoy familiarity.  I like getting to know an area and feeling at home there, seeing familiar faces, chatting with the neighborhood shop owners, and establishing my favorite bar. I don’t think this is unique. It’s normal to desire feelings of security, belonging, and comfort.

Over time, Trastevere began to feel like my own neighborhood. I felt I had an idea of what life would be like if I lived in this neighborhood in Rome. Of course, if I was living there I doubt I’d spend my days walking the cobblestone streets with my camera but, non si sa mai, you never know.

I shopped at the open-air market in Piazza San Cosimato; got to know the man who made my cappuccino in the morning, and my spritz in the afternoon, and other people in the neighborhood who recognized me years later. 

 

 

Trastevere Is A Neighborhood Of Expats

Trastevere means trans-Tiber or across the Tiber River. It has always been home to craftsmen, artists, and immigrants. Many of the people I met in Trastevere were expats and told me they couldn’t imagine living anywhere else in Rome. Most have lived there for 30 years or more.

Today there are a lot of tourists crowding Trastevere’s narrow streets. It has become one of Rome’s most popular neighborhoods and is known for its great restaurants, pubs, and nightlife. The older part of the area around Via Della Scala and Piazza Trilussa can be quite a s**t show at night. Possibly because it’s right by the Ponte Sisto one of the pedestrian bridges that crosses the Tiber River.

But during the day the streets are relatively quiet, and locals go about their business and their work. It’s not uncommon to find an open doorway to a craftsman shop and people don’t seem to mind if you take a peek inside.

 

 

What To Do In Trastevere (Visit All The Churches)

There are several important churches in Trastevere: Santa Cecilia, Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, and San Francesco a Ripa.  Check out my YouTube video short with a view of Basilica Santa Maria In Trastevere and the Piazza. 

 

Piazza and Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere

You can’t miss this church as it is one of the prettiest in Rome.  Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere is the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary and probably one of the oldest churches in the eternal city. You will recognize it by the distinctive Romanesque bell tower and beautiful mosaics on the front, glimmering in the sun. 

Piazza di Santa Maria is a central meeting point in Trastevere and a popular place for street performers plus a great people-watching spot. Watch out for drunks and beggars in the evening. They are generally harmless but can be annoying.

 

Santa Cecilia is an 18th-century remodel of a medieval church. It is named for St. Cecilia (the patron saint of music), who was martyred here in the 3rd century. Inside you will find the tomb of Santa Cecilia sculpted by Stefano Maderno and some fragments of Pietro Cavallini’s fresco, The Last Judgement. I haven’t seen this one yet, but it’s on my list.

San Francesco a Ripa: This rather nondescript church houses Bernini’s famous sculpture Beata Ludovica Albertoni. Just. Go. 

 

The Museo di Roma In Trastevere

 In May, this museum hosts an exhibition of World Press photographs. Other photographs and art in the permanent collection focus on depicting life in Rome from the 1950s to the present. If you love photography, this is the place for you. I went to an exhibit last year that permanently affected the way I take photographs today. 

Climb The Gianicolo

The Gianicolo or Janiculum Hill is above Trastevere – a bit of a climb, but well worth the effort. Here you have the best views of the city and in my opinion one of the most romantic spots in Rome. Take a date if you can.

Farmacia Santa Maria Della Scala

Farmacia Santa Maria Della Scala – a true 17th-century pharmacy now a museum and operated by monks. It’s never been open when I’m there, but I keep trying.

Eat Gelato

Eat gelato! My favorite place in Trastevere is Bar Checco, located at Via Benedetta 7. I also like Fata Morgana located at Piazza San Cosimato.

 

 

Bars and Cafes in Trastevere 

Relaxing at a typical Roman cafe while enjoying an espresso or a drink and watching the world go by, is one of the best things to do in Trastevere, or anywhere else come to think of it.
 Note that a bar in Rome is like a cafe where you can have coffee, a beer, or a glass of wine, and usually something light to eat. Most will open early in the morning and stay open until late at night. 

Caffé di Marzio in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere has great views of the Piazza and the mosaics on the front of the Basilica. They serve typical kinds of pasta, pizza, and drinks. 

Bar San Calisto 
A traditional Roman-style bar and cafe, it has been the spot for locals for over 50 years. Of course, the tourists have now discovered it too.  It’s open from 6:00 am until about 2:00 am. In theory, you can begin your day here with coffee and segway into lunch, apertivo hour, and finally, last call, though there’s really no such thing in Italy. Bar Calisto is in Piazza San Calisto, basically adjacent to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Ombre Rosse: Located in Piazza Sant Egidio across from the Museo di Roma. A pretty spot with trees and a funky artsy vibe. Always lots of people sitting outside here.

 

Where To Eat In Trastevere

There are probably more good restaurants in Trastevere than in all of Rome.  I don’t think I’ve ever eaten a bad meal here. Dining out is one of the main reasons to visit the neighborhood and a real treat.

 

 

 La Latteria 

This cozy spot was recently reviewed by New York Times author Katie Parla, as one of the best places in Rome. I can say the wine and food pairings were spot on. I tasted one of the most delicious mozzarella di buffalo I’ve ever put in my mouth. La Latteria is open from early until very late. It’s located on a quiet side street, Vicolo Della Scala so you can sit outside and not feel claustrophobic. 

Ivo’s for the best pizza. The place is always packed. Call ahead. Via San Francesco a Ripa.

Da Lucia is a traditional Roman restaurant. It took me five tries to get in without a reservation and that was ten years ago. Cacio e pepe is a must. I also had a delicious cheese omelet. Weird I know, but it tasted great with the pasta and wine. Vicolo del Mattonato.

 

 

Osteria Ferrara

You’ll need a reservation here but there are more tables than most places in Trastevere. They serve a nice mix of classic Roman dishes like Amatriciana as well as their own take on some standards. The service is friendly and they also have a good wine list.  

 

 

Walk Until Your Feet Hurt

Trastevere is a great place for walking as most auto traffic is restricted.  Browse the charming artisanal shops with unnecessary things you’ll find nowhere else. I love walking in Trastevere (even though a few times I thought my feet were permanently broken by walking the narrow cobblestone streets. It has a feeling of a small village where people know their neighbors and everyone says hello. It feels like home to me.

Love Rome? Not sure? Read Roman Holiday.

 

 

This article was nominated in the category, Best Single Post: Living In Italy.