How Long To Spend In Panzano in Chianti: A 1, 2, and 3 Day Itinerary

The sound of Bryan Ferry’s “Slave to Love” lured me down the hill and into the butcher’s shop, where I found a bit of an unofficial party in the works. Complimentary self-serve Chianti, handmade salumi, bread, and local olives were spread across a table. It was a weekday in Panzano in Chianti, and by chance I’d stumbled into the world-famous Dario Cecchini’s L’ Antica Macelleria … such is the power of Bryan Ferry.

Beyond food and wine, Panzano in Chianti is a place for those who value the serenity and pace of life in an Italian village. Vistas of olive orchards and vineyards go on for miles upon miles. Ideally located almost midway between Florence and Siena, in my opinion Panzano is the perfect place to base yourself for exploring one of Italy’s most famous wine regions.  

I’ve updated this article to make it more useful for readers. All of the places and links have been checked and double checked. Nevertheless, if a place really calls out to you, be sure to do your own research because things change fast in the 21st century. 

How To Get To Panzano

 Panzano is a hillside town that overlooks the “Golden Valley,” know for producing some of the best wines in the Chianti Classico wine region. The route from either Florence or Siena is the Chiantigiana Highway or Route 222.  You could also take the bus from Florence to Panzano, however you won’t be able to explore very far afield without a car. I did a few things by bus, but  I stayed with a friend who had a car.  The website for the bus schedule also has driving directions. 

When Is The Best Time To Visit Panzano?

Weather is unpredictable these days, still, Panzano would be best spring through fall. In the summer it should be a little cooler since it’s in the hills outside Florence. 

Tuscany can get very cold in the winter. If you’re driving be sure you know how to navigate snowy conditions on mountain roads, though it’s more hilly than mountainous. It may or may not snow, but be prepared for winter conditions.

Festivals to plan for

Panzano is also known for two important festivals each year. April 25 is Festa della Stagion Buona, Italy’s national holiday and the beginning of “the good season.”

The other big festival in Panzano is  Vino al Vino, a wine festival held the third weekend in September starting on a Friday and wrapping up on Sunday. The festival is takes place in Piazza Bucciarelli and includes live jazz music and tastings of the local wines. I haven’t been able to attend yet, but music, wine and jazz sounds great to me. 

Panzano market

I love local markets for getting to know more about a place. Most vendors offer samples and beyond just enjoying what they offer it’s an opportunity to engage in conversation and learn.

On the first Sunday of each month, Panzano hosts an outdoor market with produce, meats, antiques, hand-made soaps, olive oil, honey, fresh veggies and fruits, and almost anything else you can think of. The market begins in Piazza Bucciarelli and continues up the hill towards the church. I coveted a globe from the 1970’s with colorful, graphic, constellations…I wish I’d bought it. There was also a nice selection of vintage jewelry. 

How long should you stay in Panzano in Chianti?

How long you decide to stay is up to you but I’d give the area at least three days. I stayed six days — In those six days I visited Greve, Radda for dinner, Volpaia, Lamole, ate at all the restaurants in Panzano, did a day trip to Lucca, and spent a lot of time just wandering about and enjoying la dolce far niente, an Italian phrase that translates something like, the sweetness of doing nothing.  Here are my suggestions for one, two, or three days — you can pick what you prefer from each day and create your own itinerary.

Day 1 in Panzano: The essentials

Start in Piazza Bucciarelli with a coffee at one of the cafes around the square. There’s usually a group of people sitting outside at Bar La Curva, aptly named for its location and serving very good coffee. From there, follow the main street up  to the Duomo, Santa Maria Assunta, and the ruins of the 14th-century castle.

The castle is the oldest and highest point in town, after all what good is a castle if you can’t spot trouble coming from a distance? The climb is steep but not long. If I can do it, so can you. 

Lunch

On the way up stop at Bar Strafico, perched on the hill just before the church. It’s a good spot to slow down, catch your breath, and enjoy the views. I ate here several times when I visited Panzano. I’d usually order a salad and simple pasta, followed by an espresso before continuing on. It has changed names but the view is still breathtaking.

After lunch and getting some nice photos at Bar Strafico, wander back down the hill snapping photos along the way. You don’t need a plan, just a camera. One of the reasons Panzano is so popular is its location overlooking the Conca d’ Oro or golden valley. Some of the best vineyards in Tuscany are located here. 

Evening

Since this is a one day itinerary I think you must go to Dario’s. Mac Darios is a happening spot in Panzano, especially on the weekends. People come from all over Italy, indeed all over the world, to eat, drink, talk, and enjoy the scene. 

There’s always an antipasti spread with wine served from straw-wrapped bottles. I don’t know what kind of music you’ll hear but I promise you will have a great time. 

For dinner Panzano you really can’t go wrong, restaurants in Panzano are excellent and there are others nearby.  If you want the full Dario Cecchini experience, his restaurant, Officina Cecchini is across the street from the butcher shop. It is reservation only with a single seating for lunch and dinner, so book ahead.

Day 2 in Panzano: Venture Into Chianti

Morning

Now that you’ve got the lay of the land, use your second day to explore beyond Panzano itself. Greve in Chianti, just a short drive or bus ride away, is the largest town in the region. It’s  a good place to wander through the triangular piazza lined with arcaded shops selling wine, olive oil, and leather goods. It’s busier than Panzano, but still small enough to see on foot in a couple of hours. There are also good options for lunch. Greve’s market is on Saturday and it’s every week.

Afternoon

From Greve, make your way to Lamole one of the most picturesque corners of Chianti, known for its terraced vineyards and sweeping hillside views. The drive from Panzano to Lamole is so good that I was constantly asking to stop so I could take photos. The thing is, there aren’t many safe spots.

There’s a fantastic restaurant in Lamole open seasonally for lunch and dinner. And yes, the meal comes with outstanding views. You’ll also want to be sure to try the highly rated wine Lamole’s distinct terroir is known for.

Finding the Right Winery for You

If you want to spend the day wine tasting in Chianti know this, Chianti and more broadly Tuscany, is home to dozens of small, boutique winemakers, many tucked down unmarked country roads with limited hours or appointment-only visits. A lot of people feel like part of the fun is just taking a chance and driving down one of those roads to see where it leads. I get it. 

You could also opt for a guided tour with a group like Get Your Guide. GYG offers a selection of winery tours, tastings, pasta making classes, and village tours that would be a great way to dip your toes into the delights of the Chianti region. I have taken tours with Get Your Guide, and felt it was well organized, fun and educational. 

Also, every restaurant in the area is going to have a selection of regional wines. You can’t go wrong going to the enotecas or wine bars with shops where you can taste before you buy. In Greve in Chianti the largest and very reputable is Enoteca Falorni. 

If you’d rather not leave it to chance I recommend working with someone who knows the area. My friend Victoria di Maio is a Florence-based travel consultant, not a tour guide. Victoria has lived in Italy for six years now and was organizing itineraries for travelers for eight years before she officially moved to Florence full time. She won’t hand you a single “best,” winery but she can build an itinerary suited to you. You can find her at Postcards From Victoria. 

Evening

Head back into Panzano for dinner and dine at any place you didn’t the night before: Dario’s, Il Vescovino, or Ristorante Oltre il Giardino. I was amazed that a such a small village has so many really good dining options. Of course you don’t have to eat in Panzano but since you can drink more wine and potentially walk back to where you’re staying, why not? 

Day 3 in Panzano: Exploring wineries and UNESCO world heritage sites

After a couple of days staying close to Panzano it’s time to venture a bit further afield. Since you can really go almost anywhere in Tuscany from Panzano, the choices may overwhelm you. Here are a few suggestions… by no means are these all of the options. My motto is always, less is more. 

Towns and villages worth exploring if you haven’t already

• Greve in Chianti
• Lamole
• Radda in Chianti
• Castellina in Chianti
• Volpaia

Siena

If you’ve never been to Siena I think it would be an excellent place to spend the day or at least a half day. My suggestion is to arrive in Siena early, before 9 am. Have coffee and pastries in the Piazza del Campo, a shell shaped brick piazza unique to Siena, and a great place for people watching.

Take a tour of the inspiring Duomo di Siena, housing works by Michelangelo and Donatello. The cathedral is also know for its spectacular marble floor but to see it you’ll need to plan carefully as it’s usually covered for protection. This is where a guide can help. Check out the Get Your Guide tour options. 

On a personal note, though the cathedral is a big tourist attraction, there is something about it that felt very sacred to me. It has a strong spiritual rather than religious aura. Hard to explain. If you go let me know what you think. 

San Gimignano

A little too crowded these days, San Gimignano is still worth a visit. A perfectly preserved medieval, walled city, San Gimignano is known for its distinct towers — of the original 72 only 14 remain, but they are enough to give you an idea what it must have been like in its time. The towers were built by wealthy families of the city as a display of their power. 

 This UNESCO World Heritage Site is best explored after lunch, when the cruise ship groups have thinned out. I know this because I was on a cruise excursion when I first visited San Gimignano. Since it’s a medieval city the streets are very narrow, and it’s a bit hard to get around the tour groups. Once you get to the main piazza however, things open up. There are also many side streets with cafes, views, and fewer people. 

San Gimignano is known for regional items like leather goods, olive oil, truffles, and wine.  Even if you don’t buy anything the window shopping is great but I dare you to resist. You may notice a long line around a famous gelato shop. The guide who led my tour group that day said, “There are many other good gelato shops.”  I’m just passing on information, I didn’t try it. I’m only suggesting you might not need to wait in line for good gelato.

Fattoria San Donato

Our excursion also included a tour and lunch at a winery called Fattoria San Donato. If you do decide to take a guided or group tour sitting on the bus and enjoying the countryside is not a bad way to go.   San Donato produces olive oil, jams, organizes tours, and of course makes wine. You can tour the wine cellars, too. 

This is not in the Chianti Classico region so the wines are different. Perhaps you’re ready for a change?  Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a white wine that is very light and pairs well with local produce. You’ll taste red wines, too, and they produce grappa among others. Be sure to try a Vin Santo, which is a sweeter desert wine. Delicious.  This could be a good winery to visit if you go to San Gimignano or Siena.

Where to stay in Panzano

I loved staying right in town, within walking distance of the piazza, cafes, and Dario’s shop. There’s a lot to be said for being able to wander home after drinking copious amounts of wine and not having to drive. If that idea appeals to you check VRBO and Booking.com for Panzano accommodations in the village. You can even rent a romantic castle apartment. Maybe I’ll have to go back for that one. 

Of course there are agriturismos and wine estates offering accommodations in the countryside. Meal plans, winery visits, and tours are often part of the package. I stayed at an agriturismo in Barolo and thoroughly enjoyed it. You will definitely need a car if you stay in the countryside and you may do more driving overall.

Whether you stay in an Italian villa or an apartment with terrace views, Panzano in Chianti is a place to truly experience the real Tuscany.