I became intrigued by Torquay (pronounced TOR KEE), years ago when doing research on the English Riviera. It was described as having a Mediterranean vibe with a temperate climate, palm trees, and sparkling blue waters breaking on sandy beaches. A temperate climate year round in England? Yes please.
The area, also known as Tor Bay, became popular during the Victorian era when the railroads made it easy for city dwellers to head to the English coast. Many wealthy Londoners built elegant Victorian homes and gardens around the area which includes the towns of Paignton and Brixham. Since I didn’t have time to explore all three places throughly, I focused on Torquay, though the North Devon coast has its own share of Victorian charm, too.
Torquay harbor
Located on the English Channel in South Devon, Torquay has a lot more than beaches to interest the curious traveler. Keep reading for my suggestions on how to spend a great day or two, in Torquay, Devon.
Is Torquay Still Worth Visiting?
I’ll be honest, I almost didn’t go to Torquay. Between the reviews I read in online forums and someone I know saying it was rundown, I hesitated. In the end I’m so glad I went because aside from a few empty storefronts I found Torquay lovely. Around the harbor and some neighborhoods like Babbacombe, it’s genuinely beautiful and the beaches are clean. Torquay may not be uniformly polished but it’s very much worth seeing.
If I still haven’t convinced you, after all, you don’t know me, consider this: The ultra luxury travel brand Orient Express has announced a new luxury super yacht, the Corinthian. One of the itineraries for 2027 includes a stop in Torquay. Do you really think the Orient Express is going to invest in some run down beach town? I think the answer is obvious.
Exploring Torquay harbor, Devon
The harbor is the perfect place to begin exploring Torquay. You’ll quickly find many memorials and places that harken back to Agatha Christie, Torquay’s most famous native daughter. My short walk along the Strand included the pretty clock tower and a new full-length sculpture of Christie seated with her dog at her feet.
Allow about an hour to continue walking the Agatha Christie Mile, which takes in Princess Pier, the Pavilion, and Princess Gardens named for Princess Louis, one of the daughters of Queen Victoria. Near there is the Agatha Christie Memorial Bust, an older tribute unveiled for her centenary.
If you have time, visit Torquay Museum, home to the UK’s only permanent Agatha Christie gallery, and Torre Abbey Gardens. Don’t miss the Potent Plants section, inspired by Christie’s fondness for poisoning her characters — look for cyanide, morphine, and ricin among the garden beds.
In case you’re wondering, as I was, if there are any other famous figures associated with Torquay, well, there are. Fawlty Towers, one of Britain’s most beloved sitcoms, is set in Torquay. John Cleese and the Monty Python crew stayed at Torquay’s Gleneagles Hotel in the early 1970s, where the owner’s famously rude, eccentric treatment of guests became the inspiration for Basil Fawlty. Unfortunately the hotel was bulldozed and replaced by a retirement living facility. John Cleese, whom I met in Dallas about ten years ago, says he maintains fond memories of Torquay.
Food and drink around Torquay Harbor
Before you leave the harbor stop at Offshore Bar and Restaurant for views and a coffee, drink or bite. Offshore has a large menu including fish, pizza, salads and even an Agatha Christie menu. Not far away is Otto’s, serving brunch, drinks and pizza. Both places are open from 9:00 am and have lovely seafront views and were recommended to me by Maria aka Miss Lemon of English Riviera Custom Tours.
Exploring Greenway: Agatha Christie’s riverside retreat
To see a more personal side of Christie, you must visit Greenway, her holiday home which she purchased for a mere 6000 pounds at a time when large country homes were not in fashion anymore. Christie called Greenway “the loveliest place in the world.” After your visit, let me know if you agree.
Now managed by the National Trust, it’s still a beautiful place and filled with many treasures collected by Agatha and her family. Located on the River Dart, there’s a short hike to the boat house for the stunning views that are currently obscured from view when you’re at the house.
You should be able to complete a tour of the house including walking to the boat house in about two hours. Stop in the gift shop to purchase one of her books and have it stamped Greenway.
Greenway is a little closer to Brixham, it’s not in Torquay. You will need to drive there or take the ultimate Agatha Christie tour with English Riviera Custom Tours.
Guess who is reading Deadman’s Folly?
The Beaches of Torquay
Torquay offers twenty-two miles of stunning coastline and a UNESCO Global Geopark, a lively pier and international marina. What more could one ask of an English beach vacation.
I’ll be honest, I’m not a beach-goer in a toes-in-the-sand, basking-in-the-sun kind of way. Pale skin, blue eyes, and a healthy respect for skin cancer keep me out of direct sun. But I love everything else about a beach: the walk along it, coffee within sight of the water, the light on the cliffs. Laying out just isn’t my version of a good beach day.
But for thousands of others, beaches are what Torquay is all about so here are my beach recommendations based on accessibility.
Babbacombe Downs and beach
I loved this area. The Downs above Babbacombe is the highest promenade in England, and it’s worth the walk just for the view down over the bay before you even think about the beach itself. The hotels facing the Downs have beach views that would make a perfect spot for morning coffee or an evening drink. I’d happily base a stay around this stretch alone. It’s a bit of a walk down, but manageable.
The Downs overlooking Oddicombe Beach.
Oddicombe Beach
Just along from Babbacombe and easy to pair with it in the same stop; you can actually see it curving away from the Downs promenade if you look east. It’s a sheltered, sandy beach with chairs and umbrellas for hire if you do want to properly settle in for a few hours — which, in hindsight, I should have.
How to get to Oddicombe beach: If you want to walk via the Southwest coast path know that you’d better be in decent shape and all of the path is not accessible. Plan to walk at least thirty minutes or more again depending how fit you are.
Another way to get there is via the vintage funicular aka Babbacombe Cliff Railway While the railway is open daily if there is bad weather, especially high winds it can close temporarily.
Oddicombe Beach, English Riviera
Anstey’s Cove
My host told me about this one and recommended the cafe there — a small cove with sparkling water tucked behind a wooded path. It’s a steeper walk down than Babbacombe or Oddicombe, so budget a bit more time.
Torre Abbey Sands
If accessibility matters for your day: a pram, a wheelchair, or you simply don’t want to manage a cliff path, this is the beach to know about. It sits right in Torquay proper and is one of the easiest to reach of any beach in the bay.
Kents Caverns
I haven’t been inside Kents Caverns yet, my guide pointed it out to me as we passed giving me the history, which turned out to be a good primer, because the cave connects back to Agatha Christie in a way I hadn’t expected.
Christie visited Kents Cavern as a child, and the fascination apparently stuck. Later in life she married archaeologist Max Mallowan, and spent years accompanying him on digs in Syria and Iraq. It’s a nice thread to pull on if you’re doing the Christie mile earlier in your day. Greenway is full of the artifacts and souvenirs of that archaeological life, and Kents Cavern is arguably where the curiosity started.
The caves themselves are one of Britain’s most important prehistoric sites, with evidence of human and animal activity going back tens of thousands of years…it’s the kind of place that rewards going in with a guide rather than wandering through alone. It’s on my list for next time.
photo courtesy English Riviera Custom Tours
How to get to Torquay
Torquay is easily reached by train or by car. There’s a direct train from Exeter St. David’s station which takes about forty-five minutes. If you’re staying in the area already, you will probably want to rent a car so you can access places like Cockington, Greenway, and beaches. If you’re staying in Torquay you could also try a share ride, like Uber.
Should you drive in England?
I don’t drive in England so I rely on the trains, taxis and Uber, or a friend if available. This is both good and bad. I don’t have to worry about driving on the wrong side of the road, but it limits what I can easily access. It’s up to you to decide what you’re comfortable with and your budget. For example, a one way taxi from the Torquay harbor to Greenway could be as much as 30 pounds.
Let’s visit Torquay together
After finally visiting Torquay I’ve decided I didn’t get enough and plan to go back next year, though not in the summer. Would you like to join me on a shoulder season trip for a week on The English Riviera? Leave comment or send me a private message. This trip will include two days in London before setting off for Devon by train. We will base ourselves in Torquay and visit other coastal beach towns on the Riviera from there. Let’s book it. I’m considering two dates: May 20-27 and September 8-15, 2027. Sign up for my newsletter as I will be sending out updates and details soon.
Torquay FAQ
Is Torquay on the Jurassic Coast?
No, this is a common mix-up. The Jurassic Coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site running from Exmouth to Studland Bay in Dorset. Torquay sits further south and is part of a separate UNESCO designation, the English Riviera Global Geopark. On a clear day from Babbacombe Downs, you can see the Jurassic Coast across the bay in the distance, but Torquay itself isn’t part of it.
Why is it called the English Riviera?
Travelers who had been to Europe for holidays on the Mediterranean saw similarities in Torquay and the surrounding bay. It earned the nickname during the Victorian era, when the railway made the coast newly accessible to city dwellers.
Do you need a car in Torquay?
In my opinion, it depends. The harbor, museum, and central beaches are walkable. You could hire an Uber or taxi to take you to some of the other beaches, like Babbacombe or Anstey’s Cove. A car or taxi becomes more useful for reaching Greenway and Cockington, which sit outside the town center but again, you could take a taxi. If you want to explore further afield, then a car would come in handy but there are many places you could go on the train.
Is one day enough in Torquay?
One day covers the harbor, the Agatha Christie Mile, and a beach or two comfortably. Or swap the beach for a visit to Greenway, Kents Cavern, and museums. With two days you could probably do it all. If you really want to slow travel in Torquay, take three or four days. If one day is what you have, I hope this article will help you make the most of it.
Which Torquay beach is easiest to access?
Torre Abbey Sands, since it sits right in town with no cliff path or steep walk, unlike Babbacombe, Oddicombe, or Anstey’s Cove.
