A ruined chateau built in the 14th century under the reign of Pope John XXII dominates the hilltop. To the west, the Rhone River meanders across the landscape.
Though only the south wall of the chateau remains, the view is breathtaking enough to warrant a visit to the ruins. Not to mention, there are ancient caves, wine, and food. But wait, I’m getting ahead of myself.
Most tourists travel to Chateauneuf du Pape to visit the many tasting rooms and vineyards. It is one of the most well-known appellations in the southern Rhone Valley and one of the world’s most popular wines. For wine enthusiasts and oenophiles, CDP is a must.
However, I think it would be a mistake to visit Chateauneuf for the wine alone. Of all the wine regions I’ve visited to date, there amongst the remains of the castle, you recognize what “a sense of place,” truly means.
History of Chateauneuf du Pape
The papacy moved to Avignon from Rome in 1309, and in 1316, Pope John XXII initiated construction of the castle. It was easy to see why Pope John chose this location with its 360- degree view of the village and vineyards below, only 30 kilometers from Avignon.
The popes of Avignon recognized that the land surrounding Avignon was perfect for producing top quality wine, in other words, wine that was better than what was already available. They planted new vineyards in the more fertile land to the north. Pope John is credited with improving viticulture in the area as well.
The Wine of the Popes of Avignon
The popes called their wine“vin du papes” (wine of the popes) and promoted it far and wide. If not for the popes, would the Chateauneuf du Pape be so well known? I think eventually, yes!
Pope John never spent much time at the chateau because he died a year of completion. None of the subsequent popes ever lived there either. Pope Clement VII used it as an occasional hideout. The castle was passed to the Bishop of Avignon but it was too expensive to maintain. In time, the stone was mined for building materials much like the Colosseum in Rome.
Grapes of Chateauneuf du Pape
Chateauneuf du Pape became one of the first AOCs or appellation d’origine controlée in France in 1936. What this means is that every step of the production of wine must adhere to strict standards. This is the same for every appellation in France.
Chateauneuf du Pape wines are unique because there are thirteen grape varieties allowed for the wine production. Most regions allow one or two grapes to be blended. For example, in order for Prosecco to be labeled Prosecco, the wine must be 85% Glera grapes.
Grenache is the backbone of Chateauneuf du Pape wines and the most widely grown of all the varieties. It lends the wine notes of dark cherry, blackberries and spiciness.
Chateauneuf du Pape enthusiasts claim the wines can be drunk young, and they are promoted so. In my opinion, they are more drinkable with a bit of age.
They also have a high alcohol content compared to other French appellations. In fact, CDP wines have the highest minimum alcohol content allowed, 12.5% but they are usually closer to 14%
Other important grapes in Chateauneuf du Pape are: Syrah, Mourvedré, Cinsault, Clairette, Vaccarése, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Counoise, Muscardin, Picpoul, Picardin, Terret noir. Grenache Blanc and Grenache Noir.
The climate is typically Mediterranean, very sunny and dry, thanks to the mistral wind. Biodynamic farming is much more easily accomplished here as pests simply do not thrive in this environment. There are many different soil types from clay to sand. The appellation is also characterized by the galets roulés – large round pebbles that help hold the heat in the soil and assist in drainage. Another feature of this AOC: All harvesting is accomplished by hand.
Notice the unique large round rocks that cover the top soil.
Wine and dining in Chateauneuf du Pape
After a brief walk around the ruins to take some photographs, Michael Ippolito, my guide, led the way to the Cave du Verger, a tasting room representing over 200 wines from the area. The limestone cave dated to Roman times.
Michael had brought along a 2014 Domaine du Pegau a Tempo for us to drink, so we did not linger but went straight away to a private tasting room. The musty room, illuminated by candlelight, revealed bottles of very old vintages of Chateauneuf. The only other objects in the room were a table and chairs—yet I felt as though I were in a Michelin-starred establishment. A sommelier opened the wine for us and we toasted my first visit to France and Chateauneuf du Pape.
The wine was elegant with White flowers and citrus leading the way followed by a touch of stone fruits. Fresh and crisp, but with a long finish, this wine perfectly suited me. Give me an aromatic white wine and I’m happy.
I was having a great time but things got even better…Michael had booked a reservation for lunch in the restaurant above the cave, Le Verger des Papes. Intimate, even though buzzing with French families enjoying a leisurely Sunday afternoon meal, Le Verger du Papes is a family-owned restaurant that appeared to be somewhat of a local secret. Afterwards we moved to the terrace for coffee, which shares the same stunning views of the Rhone Valley as the ruined old castle.
We started with mussels prepared in garlic and butter followed by duck breast with a red wine reduction. Michael had fish and shrimp in a light lemon sauce. Everything paired perfectly with the floral and citrus notes of the Domaine du Pegau.
We did not visit any other tasting rooms that day. As it was Sunday, most were closed. I had to return to Avignon to embark on a Rhône River cruise. Honestly, what could compare with the wine I drank in a 2000-year-old cave under the ancient chateau of the popes.
Thanks to Micheal Ippolito of Wine in Provence, for the fantastic Domain du Pegau and tour.
