After a short walk down a cobbled street and through a tunnel, we found ourselves in another world: magical, watery, and very romantic. Terracotta-colored buildings tumbled down the hillside to a lake, sparkling like a jewel in the sun. A bride emerged from a sunflower-yellow church. We stood there on the hill for some moments, taking it all in. I turned to my companion and said, “I think we’re in the right place.” Called to Lake Orta by an article in The Guardian, I had no idea that when I arrived at the town of Orta San Giulio, every cell in my body would feel like I’d come home.
Isola San Giulio
This quiet corner of Piedmont recently found itself in the spotlight as the setting for an intimate celebrity wedding but it’s been captivating in-the-know travelers long before that.
In the Piedmont region in northern Italy, Lago di Orta (the Italian name) is nestled in the hills just west of Lake Maggiore. It’s only a thirty-minute drive from Milan but without the hustle and bustle or glitz of Maggiore or Lake Como, and another well-known Italian lakes, Lake Garda. Not many people have heard of Lago di Orta, not even the Italians, though they comprise the majority of tourists there. I think they must want to keep it a secret. Why would they do that? Because I think Lago di Orta just may be the most beautiful place in the world.
The town of Orta San Giulio on the east side of the lake is brilliant terra cotta colors with tile rooftops and painted shutters, tumbling down the hillside toward the lake. It’s a pedestrian-only town, with one narrow alley-like street and a few little side alleys that beckon you to explore them.
Lago di Orta Is A Spiritual Place
If you’d like to get off the beaten path in Italy and places of great natural beauty and spirituality beckon you, Lago di Orta is the perfect place.
Towering above Orta San Giulio is Sacro Monte (spiritual mountain), a place of pilgrimage dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi. There are twenty chapels illustrating the life of St. Francis along a clearly marked path, with picnic and rest areas along the way. At Sacro Monte di Orta, nature and architecture are carefully combined to enhance the feeling of devotion and encourage meditation. You also have a spectacular view of the lake from the mountain. It is one of the Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy and is included in the Unesco World Heritage Site list.
The Little Island of San Giulio
The small island you see from the shore is Isola San Giulio. In the 9th century, the Bishop of Navaro built a basilica there which dominates the landscape. There’s also a Benedictine monastery built in the 1900s. It seems that even this tiny island is a place for the religious and spiritual seeker, although you could simply enjoy the scenery and the architecture. A ferry to the island is located in Piazza Motta, the main town square in Orta San Giulio.
Piazza Motta
Lago di Orta is one of the best places in Italy for a day trip. Enjoy a lakeside view from one of the restaurants on Piazza Motta or wander the narrow and charming streets. We found some time to visit the Sacro Monte. Though it was a short visit I was overwhelmed by the natural beauty and as you can see, I highly recommend a visit. Coincidentally, not long after my visit to Lake Orta, I discovered that my Italian ancestors are from this area. Perhaps this is why I felt so at home there.
Orta San Giulio, Lago di Orta. photo by Penny Sadler
How To Get To Lake Orta
A charming alley
If you go, the best way to arrive is by car, though it’s possible to go by bus and train if you have the time.
Fly into Milan Malpensa, rent a car and you’ll be at Lake Orta in about an hour. Alternatively, from Milano Centrale Railways Station, it’s a two-hour train ride to Orta-Miasino or Pettenasco via Novara
Accommodations are mainly hotels on the lake, though there are some apartment rentals as well.
Have you been to Lago di Orta? Do these small out-of-the-way places call to you? Do you enjoy visiting places of spiritual or religious significance?
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