Italy is fabulous and beautiful, and we all want to go there—except for one thing: It is very, very crowded. If you’ve dreamed of going to Italy only to discover it’s everyone else’s dream too, I have just the place for you—and it’s not Venice. I suggest you escape the crowds in Friuli Venezia Giulia Friuli (pronounced Free oo lee).
Friuli, or Friuli Venezia Giulia, is separated from Austria by the Carnic Alps, borders Slovenia, and the Adriatic Sea. To the west is the region of the Veneto, home to the city of canals, Venice. Friuli has it all: plains, rolling hills, vineyards, mountains topped by castle ruins, and the sea.
Visit from the Castello in Fagagna
Escape The Crowds In Udine
I based myself in the city of Udine, in the Province of Udine. It’s centrally located, with a good train connection to almost anywhere (Venice is 1.5 hours). Udine is the second largest city in Friuli and was once an important outpost of the Roman Empire. It’s no accident that Udine is very reminiscent of Venice—it was part of the Venetian Republic from 1420 until 1797.
map by Andrea Buffone via Wine Folly
Why Friuli, Italy?
As stories often do, this one was years in the making…in a nutshell, three things happened that sent me off the beaten path to Friuli. First, I hosted a college student from Friuli in 2016.
Then, I had a Friuli-inspired gastronomic experience thanks to Master Sommelier Bobby Stucky, who brought his restaurant, Frasca (located in Boulder) to Dallas for one night. I loved it and made up my mind to visit first chance.
And the final push, I wrote an article about an Italian cheesemaker from Friuli, who then connected me with a friend in Friuli who said, “I’d love to show someone from Texas around my region.” Who can say no to their very own local guide?
From Udine we visited some of the charming villages located within an hour or less of the city. It rained a lot so we focused on hilltop lookouts, castle ruins, and cathedrals, with a stop in San Daniele for what else: San Daniele ham. We also stopped at a local winery where I enjoyed an informal tasting and learned that Friuli grows rootstock for vineyards all over the world.
We covered a lot of ground, and I got a few good photos between rain showers. I only had one day with my new friend, so I had to roll with it!
Duomo Udine
What To See In Udine
Udine has a bustling cafe scene as you’ll notice from the photos and video; Piazza Matteotti is the historic center of the city, surrounded by cafes on every side. It’s also a very pretty city. The piazzas and cafes invite you to sit and soak up the atmosphere. My favorite coffee place each morning was Hausbrandt because they had a good selection of tea, something you don’t often find in Italian cafes.
Piazza Matteotti is the main piazza where the locals hang out. Much like Piazza San Marco in Venice, Piazza Matteotti is the outdoor living room of Udine. The fountain in the center of Piazza Matteotti acts as the fulcrum around which life is lived: children run and play, families gather, and lovers meet. Pick a table at any cafe and watch the tapestry unfold.
Piazza Della Libertå
The historic heart of Udine is Piazza Della Libertå. What stood out most for me was Loggia di Lionello…It recalls the Doge’s Palace in Venice. At night everything is beautifully illuminated.
Another striking architectural feature in Piazza Della Libertå is the Portico San Giovanni. The long-covered portico, arches, and flying lion, as well as the clock tower designed after the Torre dell’ Orologio in Piazza San Marco, all speak of the once powerful rule of the most Serene Republic of Venice.
Via Mercatovecchio is the main street. Where it meets the piazza, the street begins to curve dramatically. Lined with elegant buildings, villas, and cafes, you’ll want to take a walk down this lovely cobblestoned street. If you follow it to the end, you will eventually find the Piazza Matteotti.
Check out my short video and you’ll see…no crowds!
If you love art, Udine is a treasure trove. Tiepolo lived in Udine and did some of his most beautiful work there— and by the way, he was from Venice. The Duomo di Udine houses an altarpiece by Tiepolo, and you won’t have to stand in a long line to see it.
Other places of interest in Udine include Palazzo Patriarchale or the Patriarchal Palace with it’s Grand Staircase ceiling decorated with frescoes by Tiepolo; Church of Saint Mary of the Castle, believed to be the oldest church in Udine and possibly of Lombard origin; and Gallerie del Tiepolo, located in the Diocesan Museum in the Church of the Purità.
Day trip: Cividale del Friuli Venezia Giulia
Only thirty minutes from Udine by train, Cividale is definitely off the beaten path. There is a lot to see there so I recommend at least one day but you could spend two there and have a great experience.
Cividale del Friuli was founded by Julius Caesar in 50 BCE and though small, has several interesting historical sites, not to mention it is one of the prettiest cities in Italy.
I went in search of the Devil’s Bridge, probably the most photographed place in Cividale. At first, I couldn’t see what was so special about this bridge. Well, check out my video and see for yourself.
Lombard Temple And Monastery of Santa Maria In Valle
A highlight of Cividale which I discovered a little too late, is the Lombard Temple and the monastery of Santa Maria in Valle. The temple is a Unesco World Heritage Site of outstanding cultural value. The Lombards were Germanic, crossing the Alps and ruling Italy for hundreds of years. They were pagans who converted to Christianity and eventually, defeated by Charlemagne, converted to Catholicism. The unique Lombard temple in Cividale is one of the best examples of Lombard architecture in the world.
National Archaeological Museum
“The National Archaeological Museum of Cividale del Friuli, founded in 1817, today is housed in the Palazzo dei Proveditori Veneti. It was built in the 16th century according to the design of Andrea Palladio. The first floor is dedicated to the Lombard Exhibition that displays, in chronological order, very important finds from the first settlement in “Forum Julii” (6th-7th cent.) to the last expression of the Lombard art, already penetrated by the Carolingian world.”
Taken from https://www.turismofvg.it/museums/national-archaeological-museum-of-cividale?LangSetCMS=en
Side trip: Hidden Gem, Venzone
Venzone has a fascinating history: The city suffered two earthquakes in 1976. The first caused massive damage; the second earthquake completed the destruction of the city. Incredibly, the entire city has been painstakingly rebuilt, brick by brick. Surrounded by the foothills of the Alps, Venzone was declared one of Italy’s most beautiful villages in 2017.
Be sure to visit the Duomo Sant’ Andrea Apostol to see what remains of the original frescos. Pieces were retrieved from the rubble and placed where they would have been before the earthquake. Beautiful sculptures and art commemorating the earthquake and the survivors, adorn the interior of the Duomo. There are also photos showing the destruction after the earthquake and the stages of rebuilding.
Mummies Of Venzone
In 1642, excavations at the Duomo revealed the now-infamous mummies of Venzone. The mummies of Venzone were the product of a natural phenomenon. The mummification process occurred due to a rare parasitic mold, which covered the entire corpse and dehydrated them thus stopping the decomposition.
Just outside the cathedral is the Chapel of San Michele, where the mummies are housed. The information I found about the mummies was on a sign just outside the chapel. It states that there were 21 mummies but only 15 survived the earthquakes. Of those fifteen mummies, ten are housed in the chapel, and five are in the crypt of the Duomo.
Pro Tip: On the way to Venzone make a quick stop in Fagagna
Just a twenty-minute drive from Udine. Fagagna was an important defense site— which means there was a hilltop castle. The castle is in ruins now but there is also a tiny church, a bell tower, and some of the outer walls. It was the perfect place to stop for incredible views in all directions.
Gemona
Gemona, like Venzone, was demolished by the 1976 earthquake. We made a quick stop here to see the cathedral.
Santa Maria Assunta of Gemona del Friuli
A beautiful cathedral backed by a dramatic mountain peak, the Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta is one of the most important medieval religious monuments in the region. Originally built in 1190, it was renovated in 1290 by Giovanni Griglio. He added the massive St. Christopher sculpture to the facade. On the northern side are the bell tower and a terracotta spire reaching a height of 50 meters.
Construction on the church began in 1341 but was interrupted because of injuries caused by a strong earthquake in 1348. Finally completed in 1369, it was entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1976.
Extracted from the earthquake rubble is a 15th-century crucifix. A symbol of the terror of the earthquake, it now hangs inside the church. Go see it.
Side trip: San Daniele
San Daniele is famous for the slightly sweet, nutty-flavored ham produced there. The ham is a DOP food product. The DOP labs means it’s protected by strict regulations and cannot be produced anywhere else in the world. Try one of the many bars that specialize in serving San Daniele ham. Pair it with Grissini and a glass of local white wine.
San Daniele ham is just one example of the delicious food unique to Friuli. Frico, a dish made with the local Montasio cheese and potatoes is one of the best things to eat there. Café culture is big in Fruili too, especially in the capital city of Trieste. Food is a sort of a mash-up of Austrian, Slavic, and Italian. But the food and white wines are simply another reason to explore this outpost of Northeastern Italy.
Chiesa Sant’ Antonio Abate
If you go to San Daniele be sure to visit the church of Sant’ Antonio Abate. A small church with a fantastic fresco cycle by Pelligrino da San Daniele it is one of the best in the region. Be sure to look up as the ceilings of this hidden gem is known as the Sistine Chapel of Friuli.
Imagine Escaping The Crowds In Italy
Impressed by the fascinating architecture, landscapes, food, and wine, I could not believe that there were very few tourists in the places I visited. Being able to walk at your own pace and not the pace of the crowd in front of you was a welcome change from Venice. If you seek a slower pace and fewer crowds, I suggest you get yourself to Friuli.
