A Local Guide to Braunton, North Devon, UK

Despite all the enticing photos, nothing could convey the wild, rural landscape of North Devon. And photos don’t capture the  inherent oddities and things that make it unique but aren’t apparent until you visit in real life. North Devon is one of the most memorable places I’ve been. 

One of the best aspects of making friends around the world is the opportunity to discover new cities, landscapes, history, and culture. An invitation to visit a longtime friend or new acquaintance is the stuff memorable trips are made of.

 Greg, a friend in North Devon, had been texting me photos of all the fishing villages and beautiful beaches in the area for years, and offering to act as my local guide. 

That’s how I came to spend three days in Braunton, North Devon, on the southwest coast of England. 

North Devon

Most people visit England to see London , the Cotswolds, and UNESCO sites like Stonehenge. Nothing wrong with that. I did all of that too,  but England has much to offer beyond the well trodden paths. So, if you’d like to discover the best fish and chips in England, a world-renowned surfing destination, and miles of coastal walking trails, I think North Devon could be your place.

I’ll share things to do, where to eat, what to wear, weather and language tips, plus some insider tips from my local guide and friend, Greg. I liked North Devon so much that I”m going back this summer, so be sure to subscribe to this site to receive updates and travel planning tips.

An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

What makes North Devon so special? To start,  the North Devon National Landscape is part of a designated area of outstanding natural beauty. The diverse landscape includes beaches, rugged cliffs, waterfalls, estuaries, valleys, forests, and dunes. 

The UK’s First World Surf Reserve

In addition, about thirty kilometers (or eighteen miles) of the North Devon coast was recently designated a World Surfing Reserve, which recognizes the consistency and diversity of excellent waves, unique eco-systems and biodiversity, and commitment to protecting the fragile environment. 

The iconic breaks at Saunton Sands, along with Croyde and Woolacombe, and Lynton, have been recognized as the first World Surf Reserve zone in the UK and only the second in Europe.

Braunton Parish, UK

Landscapes are big in North Devon, and dotted with small villages and hamlets. Braunton, Saunton, and Croyde are the focus of this article.  Braunton and Croyde are villages in the Parish of Braunton,  but Saunton is a hamlet. 

I stayed in Saunton because it is centrally located, making it convenient for visiting other towns, villages, and beaches in North Devon. Saunton is only two miles from Braunton. 

No matter where you stay, activities are centered around nature and water sports: surfing, hiking, and walking. I love walking and we did a few short sections of the Southwest Coastal Path together. I also had a nice walk on Saunton Beach but most of the beaches in the area are great for walking. 

Beaches of Braunton 

The nearest beaches are the namesake Saunton beach  followed by Croyde Bay, only a five minute drive. Woolacombe Beach is about twenty minutes from Braunton. And Westward Ho! is five miles. 

I’ll write more about other great beaches and  fishing villages we visited in my next article.  I chose to divide the information according to the Parish which is a bit like counties in the USA. 

Things to do in Saunton 

Though Saunton Sands is a known holiday spot for Brits, not many Americans seem to know about it. It’s a three mile, sandy beach and it’s wide, especially when the tide is out. All that lovely sand means you’ll have no problem finding an uncrowded spot of your own. You can swim here,  but watch out for the strong rip tide. The water temperature ranges from the warmest 62 F in August to 48 F in March. Depending on what you’re accustomed to, you’ may want to wear a wet suit. 

On the east side of the beach, nestled against the dunes, you can rent colorful beach cabanas and chairs.

If you fancy trying your skill on the water, there are a plethora of surf schools up and down the coast. Saunton beach is an ideal spot for a surf lesson. It’s especially popular with beginners and families.  Stand up paddle board lessons are also offered. Walking on Waves is one of the surf schools at Saunton.

There’s also a world class golf course known for its coastal links. Saunton Golf Club is rated in the top 100 in England by Golf World.

 Staying in Saunton

I stayed at Saunton Sands Hotel overlooking the beach. Though spectacular from any perspective, the view of Saunton Sands beach from the hotel is stunning…on a clear day you can see all the way across the Bristol Channel to Lundy Island, about 20 miles off the coast. In the rare time I spent in my room, I stood looking out the window at the sea and sky. 

You can check rates for Saunton Sands Hotel on booking.com, expedia and hotels.com or visit the hotel site for direct booking. Kayak.com is another site I use for flights, hotels, and car rental. I make a small commission from affiliate links and it helps me keep the site updated. Merci!

Braunton Burrows

The Braunton Burrows are part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. They are one of the largest sand dune systems in the UK, and home to over 470 species of flowers, and eleven kinds of orchids. This is a cool climate though, so don’t expect them to look like hot house orchids cultivated for florists. You really have to get out and hike the burrows to appreciate why it’s a UNESCO designated area. 

South West Coast Path

The South West Coastal Path is the longest trail in the country at 630 miles. It traverses four counties, Somerset, Dorset, Cornwall, and Devon. There are plenty of short walks and circular routes…you can choose a path as easy or rigorous as you like. The path also goes through the Braunton burrows so if you’re staying in Braunton Parish, you’ll have multiple places to access the trail at your back door.

There are also numerous foot paths throughout North Devon, but I wouldn’t have known that if Greg hadn’t pointed it out. 

WWII History in Braunton

The Braunton Burrows and Saunton Sands have an interesting connection to America, which makes it curious that not many Americans seem to go there. The beaches of North Devon, and Saunton Sands were used by American troops during WWII to prepare for D-day landings. There’s even a road in Devon called The American Road.

Braunton Village Centre

Braunton is said to be the largest village in the county or the largest small village. Either way, it has a lot of character. There was a market the day we went, with most vendors selling gear and clothing related to surf culture. There were also things like local honey, and arts and crafts. I bought this wood laser cut scene then painted it at home. Braunton also has a nice selection of independent shops. 

The Braunton Community Center

The community center is free to visit and a great place to get a feel for the community and culture of Braunton and Saunton. You can catch an art exhibition, community event, or learn more about the area’s farming, fishing, and shipping heritage. There are a lot of exhibits about the local wildlife, too. It’s run by volunteers who I found more than happy to answer questions and share their deep knowledge of their special place in the world.

Museum of British Surfing

 Surfing started in earnest in Devon in the early 1960s and 70s, though the first surfing was as early as 1900. The museum is run by volunteers and celebrates the UK’s rich surfing heritage, which now includes the beaches of Saunton, Croyde, and Woolacombe as part of the world surf reserve zone. 

Surfing is so much a part of the culture, I wish we could have gone to this museum but it was a bank holiday and the museum was closed. G said they have a huge collection of vintage photos and rare surfboards which would be fun to see. Just for fun I found this playlist for the ultimate UK surf music. 

Crow Point, Braunton

If you want to go to a spot that is mostly tourist free, check out Crow Point,  located in the estuary where the Taw and Torridge rivers converge. It’s not the easiest place to get to, however, it’s worth it for the panoramic views of nearby towns such as Barnstaple, Instow, and Appledore. The Braunton Community Center has a good website about Crow Point.

Saunton Sands beach merges with the Taw Estuary in Braunton. The estuary is an entirely different ecosystem and a haven for all sorts of birds. You could walk to Crow Point via the beach which is three miles if you start at the north end. Or you can walk from the Braunton Burrows car park.

The Tarka Trail

The Tarka Trail takes its name from a famous novel, Tarka the Otter, by Henry Williamson. It runs through Braunton and is a favorite among both cyclists and walkers. The trail follows the old railway lines.

St. Brannack

Knowing how I love old churches, Greg pointed out St. Brannack.  It’s a  lovely Celtic church, a grade 1 listed building, that has roots in the 6th century. The oldest remaining bit is the 13th century nave. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside and the church is no longer open for service. Like many churches in Europe, not enough people attend or there is no priest available. Either way, it’s a pretty spot. The village of Braunton took its name from the church St. Brannack. I’m not sure if St. Brannack was a real dude, but the story is lovely.

Croyde Village

Croyde is a pretty village about five minutes drive from Saunton. You can also walk there via the Southwest Coastal Path.  We visited for dinner a couple of times then walked it off. Access to the path is very convenient. It’s totally flat and you can get great views out to sea. 

The beach at Croyde Bay is smaller than Saunton, but considered a good surf spot for more advanced wave riders. You can also see some of the old WWII tunnels around the coastal path. Croyde is about five minutes from Saunton and Braunton. There’s also a good coastal walk to Baggy Point, which you can see in the photo below, it’s at the end where the bay curves. Lots of good tide pools in those rocks too. 

Baggy Point is a wonderful coastal path that’s accessible to all levels of fitness. The headland separates Croyde Bay from Woolacombe, another excellent beach.  Managed by the National Trust, the site has a car park, facilities, and a tea room. It’s a good spot for views across the Atlantic. 

Keep reading for details on the climate, language, wardrobe, and when to visit North Devon for the best experience. You can click around to the sections you like via the Table of Contents. Conversely, hide the TOC if you don’t want to use it

When is the best time to visit North Devon?

Any time is likely to be a good time, as long as you are prepared for variable weather…it is England, after all. It also depends on what you want to do. If you want to surf, then summer months would be best, but really, with a wet suit you can surf year round…and people do.  

HIking, walking, and exploring can be enjoyed no matter the weather. We didn’t let the rain and wind stop us from hiking the English Heritage Trust site of Tintagel Castle . Tintagel is actually in Cornwall, but it’s just at the border with North Devon. It was on my bucket list for a long time and since I was closer than I’d ever been before, we made a day of it. Tintagel is about an hour and a  half from Braunton.

Climate change has affected the weather in England. According to Greg there are more warm days than there used to be, and it doesn’t rain as often. In fact, in 2023, the entire southwest of England recorded a drought. But you know what the weather will be like if you don’t take rain gear…yep.

Which brings me to…

What To Wear In North Devon

North Devon is all about being outdoors, so leave your designer threads at home. Dress casual and don’t forget your raincoat or waterproof-wind break jacket. North Devon is on the Atlantic Coast and it’s often windy. I also wore a hat to help keep my hair from flying in my face.

If, like me, you do forget your rain gear, there’s a great shop in Barnstaple (the largest town in North Devon) for outdoor gear. It’s called Millets, and the rain jacket I bought there ended up being a brilliant investment. I wore it almost every day. More recently, I wore it for an early morning kayak adventure in California, which was windy, cool, and wet.

Local Language

North Devon is part of the larger county of Devon, a region of England referred to as the West Country. They have their own dialect which includes Saxon, Celtic, and Cornish influences. 

Generally, they speak more slowly with rounded vowel sounds. But to me, the most noticeable accent is the emphasis on the R after a vowel. At one time, it was the dialect of the kingdom, but things change. A fun detail: if you see a place called a Coombe or combe that means valley. You can read more about the fascinating history of the West Country dialect. 

How to get to Saunton and Braunton

North Devon is as far west as you can go in the county. Once you’re there, you’ll need a car to explore the area. You can either rent a car from the airport or you can take a train to Barnstaple where there will be more options. Here’s my Expedia link for car rentals in Barnstaple. 

In addition to Heathrow and Gatwick airports outside London, you can fly to the airport in Bristol, which is a lot closer to Devon. 

If you choose to take the train, you’ll need to transfer in Exeter then continue to Barnstaple. The train from London is about four to five hours. 

Insider tip: I’m not exaggerating when I say the roads in Devon are the narrowest roads I’ve ever seen. Be sure you’re comfortable driving on the left side of the road. Consider hiring a guide for a day to give you some driving tips. Fact: Devon has more roadway than the entire country. So, plenty of places to practice.

Where to eat in Braunton, Saunton, and Croyde

North Devon is a rural area known for fishing and farming, in addition to the great beaches and walking trails. Therefore, it’s pretty easy to get a delicious and fresh meal.

Naturally there are local specialties you simply MUST try.  Fish and Chips at Squires is said to be the best fish and chips in the south west. I vote it as the best I’ve had anywhere. If you’re vegan you can eat really well in Braunton. Fresh, local veggies and fruits are abundant, though I confess, I’m not sure what type of vegan protein you’ll find. I did notice that most places catered to all types of dietary restrictions. 

You should also try a Sunday roast at one of Greg’s recommended pubs. A Sunday roast is simply a warm meal of beef served with vegetables like carrots and potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. Yorkshire pudding isn’t pudding at all, it’s more like a popover .

Not to be missed is Hocking’s Ice Cream, which can only be had in North Devon. The family that started the business still owns it. Look for the trucks at the beach in either Westward Ho! or Appledore. I ate two cones and had no regrets. Greg ate his with the addition of a Cadbury Flake, another local tip.

Finally, no trip to Devon would be complete without experiencing Devon cream tea. How is it different from any other cream tea, you ask?  The difference is in how you apply your Devonshire clotted cream and jam.  You must put the cream on the scone first, then the jam, which should be strawberry. That’s the Devonian way. In Cornwall, they put the jam then Cornish clotted cream. It’s up to you, but when in Devon…do as the Devonians do. 

Restaurant Recommendations 

Looking back on my time there, I think I tried to eat my way through North Devon.  Fresh sea bass from the Atlantic is plentiful (and one of my favorites) usually served with a lot of fresh veg. A simple but healthy and satisfying meal, I ate it several times. FYI, sea bass from The Atlantic is not what most Americans think of when you mention sea bass. It’s a flaky, white fish, but it’s not thick. It looks more like Snapper without the colored skin. Overall the food was delicious verywhere we ate. 

Though there is a good selection of restaurants in the area, if you are visiting in the high season or over a UK bank holiday, you’d better make a reservation. We did not and regretted it a few times.

Beachside Grill in Saunton  This is the perfect spot to go for sunset on the beach, though you may get only clouds. Either way, it’s a lovely location with excellent menu options. 

Squires Fish & Chips in Braunton has won numerous awards for best fish and chips in the county, and the country. Who am I to question that? I found it perfectly cooked, with a light batter that didn’t fall apart.

The menu offers a variety of fish for your fish and chips plus options for peas.. Don’t ask me why they serve peas with fish and chips. Just eat them. I actually think they do it for color. That’s my best guess. You’ll have to wait in line if you don’t have a reservation. We arrived at opening and were seated right away. 

SQ in Braunton Is owned by the Squires folks. By the way, they’ve been in business for fifty years, so you know they’re doing something right. This restaurant offers a rooftop bar, nice cocktail and wine selection and an internationally inspired menu. 

Both of the SQ restaurants are light, modern, comfortable, and occupy two floors.  If you need an accessible space, be sure to make a reservation so you can sit in the downstairs dining room.

The Williams Arms in Braunton is one of the best places for a traditional British roast dinner or carvery. You can choose from turkey, beef, or pork, and then pile your plate with veggies, gravy and Yorkshire pudding. Delicious. Greg says it’s his favorite place for a traditional British roast dinner.  The atmosphere is casual and lively. Make a reservation and go. 

The Thatch, Croyde The most famous pub in the area, it’s a known hangout for serious surfers. One look at the place and you’ll get why it’s called The Thatch.

The Thatch is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner therefore the menu is huge. Different spices and ethnic specialties fill the menu along with local favorites so you really can’t miss. The Thatch is also kid friendly and has rooms for let. If you don’t want to go for a meal go for a beer or cider, and check out the live music and other entertainment on the weekends. 

The Manor, Croyde  In an area known for friendly pubs, The Manor fits right in. The atmosphere was easy-going and casual. The Manor serves a good Sunday roast and this is where I had a great sea bass with lots of fresh vegetable. 

The Blue Groove Croyde. A popular spot with both indoor and outdoor seating, it’s also kid friendly. We started with some blistered shiseido peppers that were perfect, and raw salmon. Greg had a burger and fries.  Devon is known for local beef and as a Texas girl I give Devon beef an A+ . I ordered a pasta dish with cream sauce and seafood. I found it too creamy, but that’s a personal preference. For drinks, we had a local ale and a cider. The service was great and the atmosphere was also nice.

New Coast Kitchen –Neither of us have eaten here yet, but Greg said it gets good recommendations. It closes seasonally, so we’ll give it a try when I’m visiting this summer. The website says it serves modern British food.

So there you have it, a guide to Braunton, North Devon, thanks to my friend Greg who gave me a real appreciation for the footpaths, villages, and byways that make Braunton special. Next I’ll write about all the fishing villages we visited and more beaches! Leave you comments below!