Should You Hire A Guide For Two Days In Provence?

 From the Mediterranean Sea to lavender fields, hilltop villages, and Roman ruins,  there are many reasons to love Provence. 

The natural beauty of Provence has inspired artists, authors, and creatives for centuries. Vincent Van Gogh lived out his last days there. Cézanne was born in Aix en Provence, and there is a museum dedicated to Renoir in Provence.

A large region located in the south of France, Provence experiences 300 days of sunshine per year, making it an ideal climate year round. And yes, the French Riviera is part of Provence. 

I’ve been to Provence twice now, though I never felt I had enough time there.  

Why I hired a tour guide

WhIle I usually prefer to leave room for serendipity; lack of time demands planning. Therefore  I hired a local guide to drive me to the smaller towns, villages and wineries I’d read about in books like A Year In Provence. 

I was quite lucky to find local guide Emily Durand, owner and founder of Your Private Provence,  a local tour company. After the first email exchange with Emily I knew we’d get on fabulously. 

She was easy to speak with and had many good stories to share. An American from Oregon, Emily married a Frenchman over 20 years ago and has been living in Provence ever since. Be sure to ask her the details of how she met and married this man in the ancient times before cell phones and internet. I spent one day with Emily and explored Avignon on my own.

Avignon makes a good base

Since I was embarking on a Viking river cruise in Avignon, I decided to arrive in Provence early to allow enough time to explore on my own. Avignon was the best place to base myself to make the most of my two days in Provence because it is centrally located and close to the places I wanted to visit. 

Avignon 

Located on the Rhône River, Avignon was settled first by the Gauls, then the Romans. The city was surrounded by three miles of defensive walls that at one time had thirty-nine towers. 

I found Avignon the perfect place for wandering–very safe, and friendly with many pretty cafes and squares to sit enjoying a coffee or a glass of wine. Most of the hospitality people speak English which is helpful, though not really necessary. The historic center of Avignon is not too big–I saw a lot in about 48 hours. 

One of my favorite travel memories is of walking around taking photos of a window box filled with flowers. As it turned out,  it was a private residence. My timing was perfect as the owner drove up while I was outside and invited me in for a cup of  tea. When people say the French are not friendly I think they must mean Parisians. 

Palace of the Popes, Avignon

 The Palace of the Popes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is the number one tourist attraction in Avignon, and the sixth most visited monument in France. It is huge, covering 15,000 sq.meters, or 161,000 sq. ft. more or less, making it the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Built in the 14th century it was home to seven popes over 100 years. In French it is  the Palais du Papes. 

Another iconic site in Avignon is the Pont Saint Bénézet. It was one of only three bridges in the Middle Ages,  therefore it was extremely important for transporting goods, pilgrims, and armies. The bridge was rebuilt multiple times due to flood damage but after the last flood, in1668, the townspeople chose not to restore it. It’s a great vantage point for taking photos or just a new perspective. 

 Be sure to visit Les Halles, a food market where you can buy everything from fresh baguette to olives, veggies, cheese, meats, etc. I went and had a coffee since I wasn’t going to stay in Avignon long enough to go grocery shopping, but it’s fun to observe life at these local markets. 

Wine tasting Chateauneuf du Pape

This part of France is known for the wines of Chateauneuf du Pape, the wines of the Popes. Remember, the seat of the Catholic church was located in Avignon for about 100 years. The popes wanted good wine to drink, so they invested in the local vineyards. I spent about a half day wine tasting in Chateauneuf du Pape  If you’re a wine lover, this is a must visit wine region.

Provence Hilltop Villages

The Ochre Village, Roussillon

Our first stop was Roussillon and it was a wonderful as I expected.  

Known as the ochre village because it is situated on top of the world’s largest ochre mine, the colors or Roussillon, from mustard yellow to deep terra cotta and every shade in between, have inspired artists for centuries.  

It was easy to see why it is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. The colors are as stunning in real life as they are in photographs. 

Roussillon is a very small village which you can see in a couple of hours including a stop for coffee or lunch. We arrived early because so that we could take photos before it was crowded.  I spent my time taking photos and walking the narrow streets. There were so many photo ops there it was  great to have Emily around to take a few photos of me in this magical place. I’m usually alone, so it’s rare I get a good photograph of myself. 

 Since we had arrived early, nothing was open yet, so we lingered long enough for the shops to open and to get a coffee and a pastry.

If you have free time, explore the walking trail that overlooks the ochre valley.

Pro tip: There are many parking lots but if you arrive early enough you’ll probably be able to park on the street.  

Lacoste

Our next stop was the medieval village of Lacoste, near Bonnieux.  The architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and views, are the main attractions in Lacoste.  The village has had a long and rather strange history. In the Middle Ages the entire town was massacred.  In the 17th century, the Marquis de Sade owned a chateau on the hillside with magnificent views overlooking the surrounding area.

Yes, the Marquis de Sade lived in Lacoste. Most recently the fashion designer Pierre Cardin purchased and restored many buildings in the town including the remains of the Marquis’ chateau.  Cardin has also established an art trail throughout the town. 

Emily asked me if I was up for the steep walk to the top, emphasizing that the views were worth it. I was up for the challenge even though I spent the walk pulling my socks up. Along the way I noticed many charming details such as homes with outside lamps in the shape of windmills and buildings with ghost signs.  Afterwards we ate at a restaurant with an outside terrace enjoying the perfect weather and a classic Nicoise salad.

Chateau la Canorgue

 An easy detour is a lovely winery in the area,  Chateau La Canorgue. I was interested in visiting because I’d read that the wines are 100% biodynamic and have been so for over 100 years.  Currently the fifth generation is running the winery, which is over two hundred years old. The wines are so good that they sell out (mainly to locals), long before the season is over, and win many awards.

Chateau La Canorgue became famous in the United States after the film  A Very Good Year with Russell Crow and Marion Cotillard was released.  Go for the wines and say you visited the winery from the film. But do not try to visit the house or film location. You will walk by the estate on your way to the tasting room, but there is a strict no photographs rule enforced. Respect the privacy of the owners.

Pro tip: September is usually harvest season and getting an appointment for a tasting a small, family-owned winery is usually impossible. Having a guide who is local and speaks the language was obviously the best way to manage this visit. Emily made the appointment and we had a lovely tasting.

Abbey of Notre Dame de Senanque 

This was the last stop, perfect for winding down after a busy day touring the countryside. The abbey is in the middle of a beautiful field surrounded by the trees and gardens, perfectly emblematic of Provence. I love visiting abbeys for the lovely architecture and the peaceful atmosphere. 

Founded in 1149, the abbey is one of the oldest Cistercian in Provence. During its so called Golden Age, it was quite wealthy and owned many properties, including a hospital in Arles. 

Today the monks at the abbey produce lavender products, olive oil, and honey. It is a place of monastic life  therefore be sure to check the schedule before you visit. You can take a guided tour as well, just  be sure to schedule it in advance. 

Online reservations are recommended. 

Pont Julien

Between Roussillon and Bonnieux we passed the Pont Julien, a 2000 year old Roman bridge. The bridge is in remarkable condition, so much so that until 2005 cars were still driving over the bridge! Today it is open for hikers, walkers, and cyclists only.  In the 1st century AD, even Pliny the Elder wrote that Provence looked more like Italy than a province.  After my day with Emily and then visiting the Pont du Gard, I could see his point.  

Is 48 hours in Provence enough?

 I packed a lot into only two days in Provence, and you can too. Staying in a central location like Avignon,  is important… why waste time commuting. The convenience of being able to walk to cafes and shops, was a real plus. 

Whether it’s a small group tour or private tour, I find having a  guide the most enjoyable way to learn  about an area and the culture. I had a perfect day out with Your Private Provence. 

How To Get To Avignon 

If you’re flying to France and your destination is Provence, the best airport is Marseille. Marseille is well connected to the rest of the country via train. In one hour you can be in Avignon. Other popular destinations in Provence,  Paris or elsewhere in France, are just a train ride away. 

 If you’re staying in Avignon, the train station is very close to the city center.