What Makes Sonoma County Pinot Noir So Desirable?

In 2004, the movie Sideways catapulted Pinot Noir into popularity and forever made Santa Barbara County on California’s central coast, synonymous with the red wine varietal.  However, Pinot Noir was highly prized long before actor Paul Giamatti and California vintners discovered it.  Producers of Pinot Noir around the world ultimately try emulate the red wines of Burgundy, France.  In California, exceptional expressions of this cool climate grape are found throughout Sonoma Valley, especially in the Sonoma Coast AVA  or American Viticulture Area.  To clarify things Sonoma Valley and Sonoma County are used interchangeably. Sonoma County is located north of San Francisco and west of Napa Valley.

What makes Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir desirable?

What makes Pinot Noir so desirable? The thin-skinned grapes are finicky finicky, and only thrive in specific climates. Pinot Noir is susceptible to fungal infections and pests, and can be very hard to grow. In Sonoma County, Pinot Noir varies from light-bodied with flavors of bright red fruits to more full-bodied and fruit-forward expressions of black cherries blueberries, and a certain earthiness sometimes described as forest floor or black tea, specific to the variety. 

Sonoma County AVAS

Sonoma County covers approximately 1500 square miles of mountains, rivers, valleys, and benchland, and fifty-five miles of coastline. The vast and varied topography ensures a variety of terroir and styles of wine production. While there are over sixty grape varieties that grow well in Sonoma, only a few areas are cool enough for Burgundian grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Eighteen American Viticulture Areas

There are eighteen American Viticulture Areas or AVAs, and each AVA has its own unique geography and climate. To make things even more interesting, within individual vineyards, you will sometimes find microclimates. 

What are microclimates? A microclimate defines a smaller area from the larger surrounding area. Anyone who lives near an ocean or other large body of water is well acquainted with microclimates. For example, fog creates microclimates and it affects large areas of Sonoma County. As you’ll see, fog is an important element of climate in growing pinot noir grapes.

There are four AVAs known specifically for producing outstanding examples of Pinot Noir in Sonoma County: Los Carneros, Russian River Valley, and the Sonoma Coast AVA.

The top 4 AVAS for Pinot Noir in Sonoma County, California

Fort Ross-Seaview

Fort Ross Seaview AVA is one of the smaller regions in Sonoma County. What makes it unique is the vineyards are located on mountain ridges at elevations of around 1200 feet with views of the Pacific Ocean. The elevation and marine soils provide varietal typicity distinct to the AVA. Due to the steep and rugged topography, there are not many growers. Fort Ross Seaview is an American Viticulture Area, as of 2012.

Fort Ross Vineyards

When owners, Lester and Linda Schwartz purchased the land that was to become Fort Ross Seaview Vineyards, it was virgin forest and grassland overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Close to the ocean and blanketed with heavy fog, they weren’t sure if they would be successful growing wine grapes there. 

After years of research, they planted the first vineyards in 1994. Most are small plots, a half-acre to an acre, some are the highest in the AVA, at 1700 ft.

Fort Ross Seaview is also the closest AVA to the Pacific Ocean. Fort Ross Seaview Vineyards produce Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinotage taking a minimalist approach, allowing the beauty of the climate to speak via the wine, and prove all detractors wrong. 

The Russian River Valley

The Russian River Valley is also referred to as an American Grand Cru. The Grand Cru label is taken from the Burgundy region of France where Pinot Noir originated. The geography varies from wide open plains to forested hills covered in ancient redwoods where the Russian River winds its way to the Pacific Ocean. The river and the ocean produce many microclimates, sometimes within a single vineyard.

 Elevations vary from the valley floor up to 1200 feet in the Sebastopol Hills.  Cooler areas produce brighter red fruit wines with higher acidity, while the warmer areas in the northern part of the Valley produce more full-bodied wines with richer fruit flavors; still well-balanced with bright acidity and soft tannins. 

The Russian River Valley Wine Growers is a good resource for educating yourself on the different neighborhoods and the flavor profiles of the wines produced there. Understanding each neighborhood’s characteristics will help you to identify where you can find a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that you will love.

Russian River Valley Producers

Gary Farrell

Gary Farrell Winery is known for crafting small-lot, exceptional quality Pinot Noir of pure varietal expression.  Winemaker Teresa Heredia, was nominated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine for 2020 winemaker of the year. Gary Farrell produces several single-vineyard bottlings some expressing the most elegant examples of Pinot Noir.  

I learned about Gary Farrell via an online tasting with the winemaker. We tried six wines, all single vineyard bottling but from different vineyards. If you want to learn a lot about a variety this is a great way to learn. 

Willams Selyem

Williams Selyem has obtained a cult-like following. The story goes that the founders started making wine for themselves simply because they couldn’t afford the Burgundy they wanted to drink. Their  2007 Pinot Noir was the first in North America to receive a perfect score from a major wine publication.                                                                                                                                     

Sonoma Coast AVA 

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the largest extending from the border of Mendocino County to the southernmost border of Sonoma County. Proximity to the Pacific Ocean means this is a cooler region and some of California’s best expressions of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes are grown here. The average rainfall is higher than inland, but most of the vineyards are above the fog line.

Within the Sonoma Coast AVA is the Petaluma Gap, an area cooled by wind and fog from the Pacific; this means the yields are smaller and the growing season is longer, the grapes ripen later, developing rich fruit characteristics while maintaining ideal levels of acidity. The Petaluma Gap was granted AVA status in 2017. 

The Sonoma Coast appellation is the largest licensed American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the United States, containing over 500,000 acres across 750 square miles.

Sonoma Coast  Pinot Noir

Littorai

Littorai is owned by Heidi and Ted Lemon, both with strong chops in the winemaking world. Ted was the first American hired as both a winemaker and vineyard manager at a winery in Burgundy. Their joint philosophy of winemaking is that wine is a reflection of the culture from which it springs. The Littorai esthetic is one of finesse, balance, and length. Ted was selected as winemaker of the year in 2010 by the San Francisco Chronicle. His love for terroir-based winemaking shines in his Pinot Noir.

Failla

Failla owner Ehren Jordan, influenced by his years in France, found the cooler climate and terroir of the Sonoma Coast AVA the perfect climate for growing Pinot Noir along with Chardonnay grapes and Syrah. The original estate vineyards (purchased in 1998) is in an area referred to as the West Sonoma Coast. Failla, along with other members (including Litterai) of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners, advocates making it an AVA on its own.  All of the estate properties are farmed organically with some biodynamic principles employed.

Los Carneros AVA

The Carneros AVA is located in the southernmost part of Sonoma County and overlaps Napa County. It’s the only AVA that includes two distinct and famous wine regions. The land dedicated to vineyards is roughly equal in both counties. 

The Carneros AVA’s cooler climate is influenced by the maritime breezes and the fog that drifts from San Pablo Bay. Chardonnay is the most planted varietal followed by Pinot Noir. Stellar sparkling wines are also produced here.

The unique climatic and geographic features of the Carneros AVA provided by proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the Coast Mountain Ranges, and the San Francisco Bay, affect the region’s terroir. Carneros became an AVA in 1983. Discover more at The Carneros Wine Alliance.

Los Carneros Producers

Schug Carneros Estate

The first winery in Carneros to achieve a 99-point rating from Robert Parker for Pinot Noir was Schug Carneros Estate  Founded by Walter Schug, from a German winemaking family, Walter grew up in the Rheingau region where his father farmed a pinot noir estate. Today, head winemaker Johannes Schneid continues the tradition of European-style winemaking. 

Domaine Carneros

Domaine Carneros is owned by the Taittinger Champagne family. Known for the sparkling wines they also produce still wines and an estate pinot noir. Their sparkling Pinot Noir is outstanding!  Domaine Carneros is a great place to spend a couple of hours on the terrace outside enjoying the beauty of wine country with some stellar bubbles. This winery is one of the closest to the Napa Valley border.

Wine Is About People

 Winemakers, winery owners, hospitality workers, and all of the people involved in the process of making wine in Sonoma County, are devoted to sustainable winemaking, ensuring that their wines will be enjoyed for generations to come. 

If you’d like to read more about Sonoma County and where to go wine tasting this article 72 Hours In Sonoma County