Essential England Itinerary Beyond London

Let’s be honest, if you really want to discover essential England, you’ve got to get outside of London. Ask any Brit, and they will tell you the same. That’s precisely how I ended up spending about four weeks in the English countryside.  Blame it on a Brit.

If you’re a curious traveller ready to discover quaint villages, ancient abbeys, and unexpected diversions,  this essential England itinerary will take you along the A4 great west road also known as the Great West Way. 

The Great West Way is an ancient touring route of the kings of England. It’s about 125 miles from London on the east end, to Bristol on the west end. Passing through the idyllic countryside of southwest England, it encompasses three counties: Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and Somerset. You can drive from west to east as well, however most people begin in London, because it is their point of entry into the UK. 

This route can be done in 5–10 days depending on how slowly you like to travel, but more than an itinerary, this is a way of seeing England that most visitors miss.

 From popular UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Stonehenge, to lesser known villages like Nunney, traditional pubs and riverside towns, it traces the rich cultural heritage of England. 

One of the nice features of southwest England is that everything is very close together. You can travel  a route that zigs and zags a bit, and not lose time.  

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Travel the Great West Way by car, train, boat, or bus

When planning your essential England itinerary, decide if you want to drive, use public transportation, or perhaps a combination. A cool feature of the west country is that you can travel by car, train, boat, or bus service.  If you have time you can even walk or bike. 

Check this Kayak link for car rentals from Heathrow airport.

If you plan to drive, keep in mind that in the UK you drive on the left side of the road, opposite what we are used to in the USA. But, if you don’t feel confident driving (I don’t drive), you can take the train or a bus. However, if you want to go to out of the way places like Nunney, a guided tour is the way to go. 

I did a combination of trains and guided tours. 

Where should you stay?

England’s Great West Way is the perfect route for slow travellers who like to go at their own pace. Where you stay depends on how you plan to move around the countryside. If by train, you’ll want to stay in cities with direct train connections to London, Bath, and Bristol. Other cities nearby with direct trains to Paddington include Chippenham and Melksham. 

You can take the train from London to Bath or all the way to Bristol Temple Meads station. I had a Brit Rail pass specific for England. It allowed me to travel anywhere within the country and the app was easy to use. 

If you’re a slow traveler, consider staying in Bradford on Avon, or Malmsbury, at the oldest hotel in England, a beautifully updated luxury property.  

Since most travelers arrive in the UK via London Heathrow or Gatwick Airport, you may want to spend a couple of nights in London. If you choice to go directly to Bath or Bristol then London Paddington Station is the jumping off point for your adventures.

If your time is limited time and you want to get on with sightseeing but suffer from jet lag, consider a private jet service from the USA. Your odds of getting some shut eye on the long flight across the pond increase exponentially. 

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Must see sights in London include The Tower of London, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, and numerous parks, gardens and museum. I’ve written a brilliant guide for visitors to London with a lot of useful information so please do check it out for more suggestions. 

 I took a historic pubs of London walking tour which was concentrated around Fleet Street and Westminster. What I liked about the the tour was seeing a lot of historic and famous places as we walked like the Houses of Parliament, St. James Cathedral, and some gorgeous old pubs,  including one designed by Christopher Wren. 

If you love markets I highly recommend the Borough Market. There’s so much history in this corner of London, and some sort of market has been in this location since the 1500s. You taste foods from all over the world, buy the raw ingredients to take home, or sit down in one of the many cafes for a meal.  This is also a prime location to walk along the River Thames and take photos. 

Take the tube to the London Bridge stop, get off and follow the crowd. It is very crowded but worth it.

Next to the market is Southwark Cathedral, the oldest gothic building in London, another place to walk in the steps of Shakespeare, he was a parishioner there, and other important literary figures like John Gower.

Where I stayed in London

I stayed in Mayfair, at a  brilliant location (here’s an Expedia  hotel link ) for walking anywhere in London, and only five minutes from Buckingham Palace. When I’m traveling solo I like to stay more upscale neighborhoods and Mayfair was perfect.

If you’re in or near Mayfair you must take a walk in Marylebone. This neighborhood is one of the prettiest urban areas anywhere and feels like you’re in a village rather than the largest capital city in Europe.

There’s a nice mix of exclusive shops, cafes, and independent boutiques like Daunt Books.  It’s a wonderful Edwardian bookstore especially geared for travelers. On the more affordable side I liked Super Dry clothing store. It has a youngish vibe but some gorgeous vintage fabrics. Also check out Bayley and Sage a specialty food market, that also sells fresh flowers, specialty items and take away Don’t go there hungry.

Notice the blue plaques as you walk around Mayfair commemorating the notable people who once resided in the building.  Queen Elizabeth II was born at #17 Bruton. 

After a couple of days in London, it’s time to discover essential England.

 With the exception of Windsor Castle I’ve visited every place in this article. I chose to mention Windsor because it’s so easy to visit from London, it’s very popular, and it is one of the royal palaces.  Many tours combine Windsor Castle with Stonehenge. 

Stonehenge

I’d been trying to go to Stonehenge for about fifteen years, and finally made it.  It’s a fascinating place that left me full of questions. I took a tour and learned a lot, however there is a great visitor’s center and film, as well as other informative exhibits. 

Stonehenge was built to be an astronomical clock which you’ll see when you visit. Some fun facts: Stonehenge, the largest stone circle in the world,  is made up of Sarsen stones and each stone weighs twenty-five tons. The entire complex is roughly 800 years old. I was told the smaller stones came from Wales but new recent information says they came from Scotland. Either way, it’s a marvel they traveled so far.

 Stonehenge is different from other henges because of the capstones. If you are able, consider walking the two miles from the visitor center to the stones for a more gradual and scenic approach. Stonehenge is a National Trust property and there is a fee to visit. It’s not really on the Great West Way but it’s close enough.

The other stone henge you must visit is Avebury. Unlike Stonehenge it is near the A4 and there’s a lot more to see near Avebury.

Avebury, Silby Hill, West Kennet Long Barrow

Why is Avebury important? It is the largest standing stone circle in the world. It’s very different from Stonehenge as it’s more spread out and it’s not in a circular form but more like a spiral. There’s also a village built within the stone henge. Avebury offers a unique opportunity to walk freely among the stones and take as long as you like. And, it’s free. Both Avebury and Stonehenge are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Silbury Hill is the largest artificial prehistoric mound in Europe. Excavations from 2007 indicate it took 200 years to build. No one knows why, or how it was built.

West Kennet Long Barrow is a a neolithic burial chamber believed to have been built between 4000 and 3000 BC.  It is the largest burial chamber in the UK.  The ground is chalk so the burial chamber would have been white when built. You can walk inside it and if you’re not too tall, like me, you can stand up.  Book a tour of the stone circles and burial mounds here. 

Lacock Village, Wiltshire

Lacock Village is a time capsule, it looks exactly as it did 200 years ago. Because of the unique architectural features, the village has been the location for many films and televisions shows. Maybe you’ve seen Downton Abbey? You’ll surely recognize the 12th century cloister at Lacock abbey used for an episode of Harry Potter. 

Lacock is small,  but there’s a lot to see. You can download a map of the film locations, wander the gardens of the Fox Talbot house and the abbey, visit the 12th century church, and have afternoon tea at the 14th century George Inn and pub. 

You can not get to Lacock by train so you’ll need to take the bus, or travel by car. If you do take the bus you can catch it in Chippenham or Melksham.

I’d combine Avebury and the other prehistoric sites with Lacock Village or Castle Combe and make it a full day. 

Cotswolds

Many first time visitors to London want to take a day trip to the Cotswolds, known for quintessential English villages and verdant countryside. It’s a huge are covering over 700 acres so you obviously can’t see it all in one day trip. Since we are traveling on the Great West Way, the villages you can visit easily include Lacock Village, Malmesbury and  Castle Combe.

Bradford on Avon is on the very southeast edge of the Cotswolds, and Bath is also just outside the defined boundaries. The entire area is an area of outstanding natural beauty peppered with neolithic burial chambers, castles, manor houses and pubs. 

You can use public transportation but if you want to see more of the Cotswolds you’ll need a car. Check rates for car rentals and tours on Expedia. 

Nunney, Somerset

Nunney castle is a 13th century castle that was destroyed by parliamentarians during the English Civil War in the mid-1600s. However, there’s still much intact and I thought it was very atmospheric. When we went you could walk across the bridge to see inside the castle. The village is tiny, but very pretty and would be a good place to sit outside with a drink after visiting the castle.

Nunney is not technically on the Great West Way road but it’s a very worthwhile detour. After you visit Nunney you can have a walk through Frome, a quirky town with many independent shops. Nunney Castle is an English Heritage Trust property and it’s free to visit.

Check rates for booking.com as you will  need a car to visit Nunney,  or a tour guide. 

Bradford on Avon, Wiltshire

Bradford means the broad ford across the river Avon. It’s a pretty city just ten minutes by train from Bath. One of the best things to do in Bradford on Avon is to observe the operation of the ancient locks along the Kennet Avon canal, part of a canal network built over 300 years ago and still functioning today. 

Another way to experience Bradford on Avon and the Great West Way is by canal boat. Traveling by canal boat ranks high on my list of favorite experiences. It’s the ultimate in slow travel and the best way I know of to disconnect and enjoy a day out in nature while delving into the rich culture and history of England. 

I rented a boat from ABC Boat Hire for a day trip. We sailed from the Hilperton Marina, just an hour from Bradford on Avon where we sailed through the lock. Going through the lock is an adventure, with locals standing by to help incompetent tourists. I admit I had plenty of help from friends. 

After the lock, which can take anywhere from thirty minutes or longer depending on how busy it is, we sailed on to Avoncliff aqueduct where we made a U turn to head back to the marina. We stopped here to enjoy a pint at a pub on the River Avon. 

Continuing on towards the marina, we stopped again at Bradford on Avon and visited some artist galleries just a short walk from the canal and a spectacular medieval tithe barn. 

An important detail of renting a canal boat–it is required to have at least two people on the boat which is simply common sense. When you need to moor you need one person steering and the other pulling the rope to bring the boat shoreside, and anchor it. It actually takes a good bit of strength but don’t worry, I’m only 5’ tall and can lift about 40 pounds. If I can do it, so can you. 

Bath, Somerset

The city of Bath has the distinction of being the only city in the UK designated a UNESCO world heritage site. Once you see the classical Georgian architecture and the ancient Roman baths you’ll understand why. It is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. 

Other things to do in Bath include the Holburne Museum, featured in the series Bridgerton, the Circus and the Royal Crescent, both masterpieces of Georgian architecture. Literature lover will want to visit the Jane Austen Museum. Fun fact: the circumference of the Circus is the same as Stonehenge. 

The Bath Fine Cheese Co. and the Couer d’Leon are two unique places for food and drink that you should not miss. The Fine Cheese Co. offers more than cheese on the menu and has a cafe with amazing coffee. The Coeur d’Lion is an old pub on a narrow street near Bath Abbey. Walk upstairs and look out across the rooftops of Bath.

Bath is easy to visit by train from London Paddington Station or Bristol Temple Meads. The bus station is located adjacent to the train station. I think Bath is a good midway point and a great base for big adventures in south west England.

I spent about five days in Bath and wrote an article about traveling solo in Bath. If you’re going to Bath, solo or not, you’ll want to read that article.

Bristol, Somerset

In my opinion, Bristol is one of the unsung gems of southwest England. The second largest city in the south west and for centuries the second largest port in the UK. 

Bristol has an amazing food and culture scene with a large number of Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurants. Home to Banksy and Brunel, the former a famous graffiti artist and the latter a genius engineer of the Victorian age. Be sure to take a walking tour of Bristol street art. 

I also like John Nation’s walking tour. His company is called Where The Wall. 

The top tourist attraction in Bristol is Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s  SS Great Britain, the first ocean liner to cross the Atlantic to New York City. Another Brunel attraction is the Clifton Suspension Bridge. Located in the elegant neighborhood of Clifton,  there are good hiking trails, beautiful views of the bridge over the Avon Gorge, and plenty of green space for a picnic. 

For food and drink in Bristol check out Wapping Wharf, a cargo container development on the harbor. 

If you want to stay in a city, Bristol is a nice option. It’s only 500,000 people so it’s more manageable than London.  I found it a friendly city and very easy to walk everywhere, though it is a bit spread out.

Check Hotels dot com for accommodations in Bristol.

Getting to Bristol

You can take the train from London Paddington to Bristol Temple Meads Station or from Bath Spa station. There’s also good bus service to many of the smaller towns and villages from Bristol. I took a bus from Bristol to Heathrow airport. It was clean, comfortable and affordable. 

Why should you go?

Offering a mix of historic sites, charming villages, and vibrant cities– from the ancient stones of Stonehenge and Avebury to the modern street art of Bristol, travelers will experience a diverse and enriching journey through southwest England. The true essence of England is waiting for the curious traveller along this historic touring route.