North Devon is the hidden gem of the West Country. Postcard perfect fishing villages, wide sandy beaches, and dramatic coastal views with fewer crowds await.
I think it’s safe to say that Ilfracombe, located in the northwestern part of the county, is not the first place that people think of when planning a trip to the UK, but it should be. The first time I set eyes on the harbor, I was hooked.
A special feature of Ilfracombe are the steep hillsides surrounding the harbor and sprinkled with Victorian candy-colored houses…the whole scene reminiscent of San Francisco’s painted ladies on the sea side. At night, lights strung from lamp posts outline the harbor, reflecting the colors of the Union Jack.
A small port town with a big history, Ilfracombe is also an artsy town, with a distinct personality that suits creative types and those who appreciate independent businesses. History is everywhere, interspersed with more modern designs.
A bit of Ilfracombe history
The natural harbor opening to the Bristol Channel brought fishing and shipping trades to Ilfracombe. Fishing is still a big part of the economics of the city today. The many secluded coves and natural caves in the area lured smugglers as well. Brandy, rum, tea, and anything else that was taxable was often stowed in the area.
By the 1800s, visitors to Ilfracombe came for the beautiful beaches and natural pools that formed around the rocks close to the harbor. Welsh miners dug tunnels through the cliffs to the coast creating access for the health conscious. The tunnels are now closed due to erosion. I tried to go last year and was disappointed.
The arrival of the railroads connecting Barnstaple directly Ilfracombe created a booming in economy but like many of England’s Victorian era beach destinations, people stopping coming and the train stopped running.
Today Ilfracombe’s fortunes are turning again for the better. If you visit, you’ll see a lot of scaffolding on High St. No doubt the controversial Damien Hirst sculpture Verity has brought buzz to the town as well.
Here are my top suggestions for spending a day in Ilfracombe.
Planning Your Day
You can probably see most of the highlights of Ilfracombe plus have lunch or dinner in a half day, or explore at a more leisurely pace and allow more time. If you want to pick up the southwest coastal path in Ilfracombe, that’s a full day for sure. I could easily while away the better part of day here going in and out of shops, stopping for food and drink and hanging out around the harbor.
Ilfracombe Harbor
Ilfracombe is a working harbor where you can watch the fishermen bring in their catch, tour boats coming and going, and sea gulls generally being a nuisance. It’s one of my favorite places for a meal and a walk with a bit of shopping thrown in.
Pro tip: Ilfracombe harbor is perfectly positioned for sunset photos. Just be sure to check the tide tables for the best time otherwise you could find a harbor with no or little water. Excellent views can be had from one of several hillside locations also making great photos.
View of Hillsborough Hill from Lantern Hill.
St Nicolas Chapel and Lantern Hill
On Lantern Hill at the end of the harbor is St Nicolas Chapel, named for the patron saint of sailors. The oldest building in Ilfracombe, the chapel has served as a beacon for sailors since Saxon times. When Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries in 1540, it ceased to be a chapel but it is fairly certain that it continued to serve as a lighthouse. Today you can visit inside the chapel but the hours are irregular. I went last year in May and it was not open but this year it was.
The chapel is really sweet, assuming you get to see inside, but even if you don’t the views can’t be beat. You’ll have 360 degree views of the harbor and the Bristol Channel. There are benches placed at different spots as you climb the hill for contemplation or just catching your breath.
Another nice hike with harbor views is Hillsborough Hill. This is harder than Lantern Hill so allow some time and bring shade and a water bottle. It can be windy once you’re away from the protection of the inner harbor so that might be helpful too.
Verity
At the end of the harbor below Lantern Hill you can’t miss the sculpture of a semi-flayed pregnant woman, sword raised, facing the Bristol Channel, she’s Verity — standing 66 feet tall. The work of Damien Hirst, who now calls Ilfracombe home, Verity has been the talk of the town for obvious reasons. Love her or hate her, she’ll be there another seven years. Hirst says she stands for truth and justice. I can’t decide if I like her or not. Let me know what you think.
Ilfracombe Museum
This museum seems like a good option for either a rainy day, a day with kids or if you geek out over shrunken heads and WWII memorabilia. We were going to go but the weather was so nice we ended up staying outside. I’ve got it on my list for the next time. Admission is only 6 pounds.
RNLI Station
The RNLI Station is way cooler than it sounds. Having visited the station in Ilfracombe and seen the boats up close, I actually understood what I was watching later when I was on a boat tour of the Devon coast. I experienced one of their lifeboats running a drill– a speed pass, then pulling the bumpers or fenders off the side of our boat so they were right next to us without bumping us. I’ve got the video to prove it.
While you’re at the harbor in Ilfracombe, don’t just walk past the station — ask if they’ll show you the boats. They often allow visitors and offer tours where you can check out the boats and learn more about how the RNLI saves lives at sea. There’s no charge and kids especially love it.
Founded in 1824, the RNLI, Royal National Lifeboat Institution, operate 239 lifeboat stations in the UK and Ireland. It’s a charity organization completely funded by donations and run by volunteers, and operates independently of the Coastguard. Since it was founded, they have saved over 146,700 lives!
A Quick Bite
For the best clotted cream ice cream in Devon, be sure have a Hockings ice cream. As I mentioned in my locals guide to Saunton and Braunton, Hockings is a family-owned and operated business and you can only get it in North Devon. From May to September they have a truck at the harbor in Ilfracombe.
If you want something more substantial, S&P Fish Shop looks good and locals give it a thumbs up. I was going to recommend Levain, but they closed recently. For a casual bite, fish and chips sounds perfect to me. Other local recommendations include The Dolphin which is right on the harbor. Every time I’m in Ilfracombe there’s a line there so I consider that a good sign. And The Antidote, a Michelin Guide restaurant which friends visit regularly.
Quay Street Shopping
Before you leave the harbor check out all the shops on Quay St. Everything is independent and there are lots of cute gifts and keepsakes to remind you of your time in Ilfracombe. Ilfracombe is gaining a reputation as an art town by the sea. I liked the Pier Gallery…they have a lot of prints in small affordable sizes that are easy to travel with. Fairies Fancies has all sorts of gifts for all ages and price points from home decor to wind up toys. Check out this link for the Ilfracombe Art Trail. On High St. I found a fun sign for my tarot reading business at a place called 7th Heaven.
A pint to end the day
If you fancy ending your visit to Ilfracombe with a pint or two you can do no better than George and the Dragon on Fore St. This place was built in 1360! It’s a proper pub: low wood beamed ceiling, fireplace, lots of cozy seating, good food and drink, and a welcoming atmosphere.
Pro tip: Ask if you can take photos before breaking out your iPhone. I asked and was told ok, but do not take photos of patrons in the pub. So, if the pub is busy, you may not get photos but you get a real English pub experience and that is worth more than any photo.
To visit Ilfracombe you’ll need to either take a bus from Barnstaple or hire a car. If you’re traveling from London or elsewhere in Devon there are numerous train connections to Barnstaple via Exeter.
