Riquewihr, The Prettiest Village in Alsace & Why You Should Stay

In far northeastern France, flanked by the Vosges mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east, you will find a land of vineyards and castle—Alsace. The verdant hills host medieval villages of cobblestone streets and half-timbered houses.  Riquewihr is the prettiest village in Alsace and is  often referred to as the gem of the Alsace wine route. 

While many people visit Riquewihr on a day trip, returning to the cities of Colmar or Strasbourg in the evening, I recommend Riquewihr as a base for your Alsace wine adventures.

During the day it is crowded, but at dusk and dawn, you will have the village to yourself. Walking the streets at night I often felt as if I had traveled back in time. It’s a unique atmosphere I’ve not found anywhere else. 

Ideally situated twenty minutes from Colmar,  it is quite easy to visit nearby villages and top attractions of Alsace, from Riquewihr. And yes, there’s  a lot more than wine tasting happening there. Plus, you can enjoy hiking the Alsace wine route even if you’re not into wine.

If you are planning to travel to France, there are many reasons to include Riquewihr in your itinerary. In no particular order here are my recommendations. 

Riquewihr, the gem of the Alsace vineyards

Riquewihr is surrounded by two Grand Cru vineyards, Schoenenbourg and Sporen. You’ll find  these vineyards mentioned in texts as far back as the 15th century. The wines produced here can be stored for decades due to the gypsum in the soil of the Schoenenbourg vineyard.  Another key factor contributing to their popularity– the wines can be shipped great distances without negative effects. The terroir of both the vineyards is strongly expressed in the wine.

I have been obsessed with visiting the Alsace region ever since a friend shared a bottle of Riesling with me. Most people think of Riesling as a sweet wine, but in Alsace it is more often a  crisp, dry wine.

“Riquewihr gets my vote as France’s most beautiful wine town,” Washington Post  (James Ward, 2010)

 If you like wine, Riquewihr is a good place to go tasting. Many of the tasting rooms are open without an appointment if you don’t want a tour. It’s not the only reason to travel to France, but it’s a good one! Here are a couple of tasting room recommendations that you should not miss!. 

Wine Tasting, Riquewihr and beyond

 

Famille Hugel

The Hugel family has been making wine in Alsace since 1639.  A historical book I read before traveling to Alsace, Wine and War (review coming soon), makes numerous mention of the Hugels and their involvement in the resistance movement during WWII. The history of the family is certainly fascinating…and the wines are superb.

The tasting room is on the main street, Rue du Général de Gaulle, so you cannot miss it. Tastings are complimentary–a rare treat with such a popular producer. There are several tasting options to choose from, and the staff will share as much or as little information as you like.

Most tastings begin with Gentil, a blend of four grapes, also known as a field blend. It is the only blended wine they produce; all others are single varietals, which makes it interesting to taste the same grape in different vintages. 

I did quite an extensive tasting there to understand the terroir of the Schoenenbourg and Spoden vineyards, where the Hugel vines are located.

Dopff au Moulin

Since 1574 the Dopff family has been dedicated to the development of high-quality wine in Alsace. The grandfather was a forerunner in producing sparkling wine made in the Méthode Champenoise (the same process by which Champagne is made). Today, their excellent Cremant d’Alsace wines have been recognized with both gold and silver medals at the Decanter Wine Awards, as well as the Crémants de France and Luxembourg competitions.

Dopff produces about 1,000,000 bottles of wine annually – 800,000 are cremant, exporting only 30%. The tasting room is just outside the city walls on the northeast side of town. Dopff also produces excellent still wines.

As you may guess, Au Moulin is a nod to the windmill which once was located on this site.

Domaine Marcel Deiss

Domaine Deiss is in Bergheim, only a ten-minute drive from Riquewihr. Honestly, even if you have to take a taxi, just go!  Marcel Deiss is widely regarded as one of the top three winemakers in Alsace. His wines are primarily field blends (usually four grapes but sometimes more), a style of winemaking that he has elevated to an art form.

Traditionally, only four varietals can be grown in Grand Cru vineyards but, with much passion and persistence, Deiss has overcome these limitations.  To say he is a rebel is an understatement. Deiss believes these wines more honestly express the terroir of the vineyards. All I can say is, they are superbe! 

I wrote about pairing wine with a recipe from Marie Helene, the head of exports at Deiss. 

Domaine Emile Beyer

Domaine Emile Beyer has been producing wine in Eguisheim, a Les Plus Beaux Village, since 1580.

Domaine Emile Beyer has been certified organic since 2014, and biodynamic since 2019. Harvest is completely manual and horses are used in some vineyards where it is impossible to gain access with machines. Each year, between 50 and 80 trees and other crops are planted to maintain and encourage biodiversity, working in accordance with the Research Institute of Colmar

Winemaker Christian gained experience working at some of the best wine estates in Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Rheingau. His attention to detail, deep knowledge of each vineyard plot, and understanding of the relationship between the wine and the environment that produces it have led to his commitment to organic farming and winemaking. Check out this recipe pairing seafood with Domaine Beyer wines.

The Alsace Region Wine Trail

Established sixty years ago, the Alsace Wine Trail (Route du Vin) runs 170 kilometers from north to south. It is one of the most scenic and popular wine trails in France. Several villages are referred to as The Pearls of the Wine Trail; as you may have already guessed, Riquewihr is one of these gems. 

How to walk the wine route

From Riquewihr, there is easy access to the trails on both the north and south sides of town. If you’re uncertain where to enter the trail or which way to go, you can get a map and directions at the local tourist office, located on Rue De General du Gaulle, across from the Hugel tasting room.

If you enter through the Sporen vineyard you can follow the trail to Kietzenhiem, about an hour’s walk. Or, follow the path through the Schoenenbourg vineyard to Zellenberg. Hikers, bikers, and anyone who enjoys nature will love the vineyard trails. In the fall, after the harvest is complete, the only sounds are the buzzing of bees and the falling leaves.

From Riquewihr to Zellenberg – it’s only thirty minutes, and very easy. The scenery is spectacular, so do bring your camera, or at least make sure your cell phone is charged. You don’t have to love wine to enjoy this.

When you arrive in Zellenberg, go to the Jean Becker Winery for a taste of their organic and biodynamic wines.
The Becker family has been in the Alsace region since 1610.  You’ll see old farming equipment hanging around the crush pad and the tasting room feels like a family-style pub. 

The Architecture of Riquewihr

Riquewihr is surrounded by two layers of defense walls. On the west side of town, it is easy to see the inner and outer walls, the Dolder tower, and old winery houses built into the walls. Inside the walls, the tightly packed houses built between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries, are perfectly preserved. Riquewihr is one of the few villages that was not bombed during World War II.

Though the village has only1300 inhabitants, Riquewihr is the third city in the Alsace region for the number of National Heritage buildings, after the large cities of Strasbourg and Colmar. This is one of the reasons Riquewihr is so popular. I spent a week there and still didn’t see everything, though I gave it a good try!

You’ll notice a style of architecture called half-timbered which is found in Germany as well as France; to describe it in very simple terms – exposed beams and plaster, built on a stone base or foundation. It was very rare for a house to be built entirely of stone because it was more expensive. Also,  the forests in the Vosges mountains provided a plentiful supply of wood. Only wealthy merchants had homes made entirely of stone.

In the 17th century, as more people from Paris moved to Alsace, stone homes became vogue, considered to be more French. The half-timbered German style was frowned upon. Riquewihr has the largest number of stone houses in Alsace!

 Alsace Foods

Did you know that Alsace has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants in France? Yes, it’s true! And Alsatians do love their food. To be sure, I was well-fed in Alsace.

Alsatian food is a hybrid of German and French influences which leads to some very interesting dishes like sauerkraut in wine cream sauce…delicious! Pork is very popular and, my favorite pasta-like dish, spaetzle. The food can be a bit on the rich side, which works well with a sharply acidic Riesling wine, or in some cases a Gewürztraminer with, for example, a stinky cheese.

Other local foods to try: Fleischnaka, foie gras, kugelhopf, pretzels, onion tarts, quiches, foie gras which is fantastic with all the wines, and flambé.

Riquewihr has about thirty restaurants… quite a lot for such a tiny place! 

Location, location, location

Riquewihr is very central to anything and everything you’ll want to see in Alsace. The villages of Kayserberg, Hunawihr, Benawihr, Ribeauville, and Eguisheim, are only ten to fifteen minutes drive.  You can read more about these gems of the wine trail here.

Colmar

 Colmar is consistently rated one of the top European destinations for culture and history.  Since the period of the Holy Roman Empire, it is the center of the wine trade in Alsace. 

I had limited time in Colmar, so I took a guided tour. The tour was good for learning some key historical dates and names important to Colmar–in fact–it was a lot more than I could absorb in such a short time.

On a pretty day walking around Colmar is a real pleasure and the traffic-free historic center makes it that much better.  Colmar is enchanting. I look forward to going back to explore the museums and Michelin-star restaurants.

Even though my time was short I have a few key takeaways from my tour. Here’s the link for the tourism office in Colmar.

The Unterlinden Museum

The Unterlinden Museum is the second most visited fine art museum in France (outside of Paris), after the Louvre. I did not make it in time to see the treasures inside, the most precious being the Isenheim Altarpiece described by author Francine Prose in the New York Times as “life changing.”

Bartholdi Museum

Bartholdi Museum is the childhood home of the man who gave the United States the Statue of Liberty, Auguste Bartholdi. There is a replica just outside of town in a roundabout. Bartholdi was from a wealthy family and spent quite a lot of his own money to make this project a reality, traveling frequently to the U.S. on PR campaigns. He was very prolific as both a sculptor and an artist.  

Pfister House

 The Pfister House is a show-stopper! Built in the 16th century, it combines medieval and Renaissance architectural details. You can’t miss it!

Petite Venice

Petite Venice is perhaps one of the most photographed neighborhoods in Colmar. It’s easy to see why. Get in line on the bridge for your chance to take this classic photograph. Or go back in the off-season when it is less crowded. 

Séléstat and the Humanist Library

A highlight of my trip to Alsace was this small but vibrant city, just twenty minutes from Riquewihr. There is a fantastic market that seemed free of tourists. Near the market is St. Georges, a spectacular Gothic church. This neighborhood is full of charming architecture and sidewalk cafes.

The Humanist Library

The real gem in Séléstat is the Humanist Library, which has just reopened after a four-year remodel by Italian architect, Ricardo Ricciotti. The new space is light and spacious – really beautiful.

 There is a legend that says Séléstat was founded by a giant. Who knows? One thing is certain, in Séléstat you will walk in the footsteps of giants from the Humanist period.

This incredible library houses some of the oldest documents in the Alsace region, and one of the largest collections of medieval manuscripts and Renaissance books. The core of the collection is in the library of humanist, Beatus Rhenanus. There are 423 volumes containing 1,287 printed works, 264 hand-written letters, and 33 volumes of manuscripts. In 2001, the collection was added to the UNESCO Memory of the World register. 

Introduction To Cosmography

 Recorded in 1507 in the Alsace region, the Introduction to Cosmography contains the first written use of the word America. The writer(s) of this book are responsible for naming the new lands, America. There is an original copy in the Smithsonian. Who’d have thought I’d go all the way to France to learn about this?

Riquewihr Accommodation

Gites les Remparts de Riquewihr

Whether you are traveling solo or with a partner, a group of friends, or family, Gites les Remparts de Riquewihr can accommodate you in the heart of the Alsace wine country. Gites (holiday rental), is a collection of fourteen, self-catered apartments,  located in historic buildings that have been meticulously restored.

The White Stork, Little Wolf, and Fox and Grape are a few of the more popular rentals. If you have a special need just ask when you book. 

Jean-Paul and Martine have recently remodeled a former winemaker’s home built in the 1500s. There are six apartments in this building and some have access to a private garden courtyard.  You have only to look outside for views of the most famous vineyard in Alsace, Schoenenbourg.  

Amenties

Each apartment has a fully equipped kitchen, wi-fi, and satellite television, and maintains the original architectural elements. If you’ve never been to Riquewihr don’t worry because in every room is a book with all the information you need; it includes a complete list of restaurants, maps, addresses of wineries, etc.  Additionally, Jean-Paul and Martine are locals in Alsace and can offer insider information that you will find invaluable, especially if you are in Alsace to go wine tasting.

You may rent a studio apartment or an entire house for a family holiday. I stayed in the Sylvaner apartment on the main street Rue de Général du Gaulle.  Large enough for two people, it had a full kitchen, dining table, small sofa, and television, (though I never once turned it on). I stayed here for one week. By the time I left I could tell the time by listening to the nearby church bells.

It was the ideal location for me–during the day I was out wine tasting, visiting museums, and walking the vineyards. But at night I came home to the almost deserted streets of Riquewihr. Devoid of crowds, I had time and space to compose my photographs and absorb the atmosphere. I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. Check rates for Riquewihr accommodations on Expedia and check rates for Les Remparts de Riquewihr on Tripadvisor. 

How to get to Alsace

Alsace is located in far eastern France and borders Germany and Switzerland. If you fly to Germany, the closest airport is Frankfurt. From the airport, you can take a train to Colmar via Strasbourg. Once in Colmar, you can either rent a car or take a bus or taxi to Riquewihr.

From Switzerland, you can fly to Zurich or Basel. Basel is by far the best choice because you are only one hour from Colmar. However, I flew into Zurich and took the train to Colmar via Basel–either way, works. 

It is handy to have a car to get around, but it is not necessary. I think it depends on how long you plan to stay. For a short trip, I’d skip the car, but for a longer trip,  it would come in handy.  I stayed one week without a car and had a guide much of the time. 

So, tell me, have you been to the Alsace region? Where did you stay? If not, when are you going?

 All photos are mine except those marked Jean-Paul Krebs. All rights reserved by respective owners.